newsletter issue 178

Last night at Hyundai India Couture Week in Delhi, there was nary a bride in sight. With vastly different, equally deliberate departures from the expected, Ritu Kumar and Shantnu & Nikhil reminded us that bridalwear isn’t the only measure of Indian couture. At Ritu Kumar, it was all about separates: jackets, skirts, dresses, and trousers—some in the designer’s signature Pitch Patch (a mash-up of prints and textiles culled from her archives given a vintage, sepia-tinged treatment), others in opulently embroidered fabrics. Saris were styled with sheer shirts instead of the usual blouse—the kind of styling that nudges tradition gently. But the biggest takeaway: ponchos and printed leggings!!! Not entirely convinced about the leggings but a fun experiment nonetheless.

The designer, now 80, watched from the front row and joined her son Amrish and actor Bhumi Pednekar for the post-show bow.

Shantnu & Nikhil’s ‘Metropolis: The New Code of Menswear’ was sharp, with theatrical tailoring and high-shine drama. There were flared trousers, cummerbunds, and ruffled collars. The designers’ signature draped kurtas were reimagined in sheer, embellished versions, and they’ll no doubt be the blueprint for many a groom’s sangeet look in the months to come.

For the women, there were pinstriped dhoti-style skirts paired with slim sherwani jackets. Also, a white broderie anglaise skirt that felt oddly prim (but in a good way).

No official showstopper, but the front row was stacked: Arjun Rampal, Jim Sarbh, Rajkummar Rao, Vihaan Samat, Randeep Hooda, Rahul Khanna, and Zahan Kapoor—all of whom stood up and joined the designers at curtain call. No one tripped. Everyone looked great.

In the post-show press conference, the duo summed it up: couture doesn’t have to mean wedding wear. It’s a familiar line. Only this time, it landed.

More on ICW later. In the meantime, scroll down for more in fashion.