The wedding guest-ready anarkali gets an Umrao Jaan update

Umrao Jaan recently took on a new life in all its 4K glory, and so did the anarkali. Rekha turned heads in a white-and-gold Manish Malhotra ensemble, complete with intricate jewellery and that signature ada. Honestly, not much has changed since 1981, she still walks in and everything else fades to background score. We had Janhvi Kapoor making a case for timeless tradition in an archival chikankari anarkali from House of Kotwara. And Ananya Panday gave the silhouette its most wearable wedding guest moment. In a white Rohit Bal anarkali with bold pink-and-gold jhumkas, a bare neck, and a red rose tucked neatly in her hair, she revived Rekha’s Umrao aura, with a Gen-Z twist.

It’s proof you only need one great piece of jewellery to pull a look together, if a simple outfit is as elegant as hers. If you’re not the bride, you still deserve a feel-good fit. And these anarkalis have no bad angles and are as photogenic from that first mirror-selfie to that awkward moment of you stumbling off the dancefloor.

The Rekha way

The ivory anarkali is obviously the blueprint. You can never go wrong with it. Some gold accents and embroidery is what makes it festive, and any gold jewellery just seamlessly fits in. We’ve got the traditional ones, heavily embroidered with dupattas that seal the look. And then there’s the funner versions: maybe a deep V-neck, or a low back. Mirror work on an anarkali is always a hit. The best part about wearing a white anarkali is that it gives you a full canvas to do your makeup, jewellery, and hair exactly how you want, no restrictions. A red rose or a gajra tucked in is always a classic. And when in doubt, go a little heavy on the earrings, with a bare neck.

Regal reset

Now, if you're the bride’s best friend (unofficial co-host), you obviously don’t want to upstage her. But you do want to look the part. Some anarkalis look like they’ve stepped out of a Mughal-era painting, and that’s exactly what you want to give at your best friend’s wedding. Think deep purples, wine tones, hints of gold. Maybe a gota-textured kalidar with a multi-hued dupatta that moves beautifully. A full-sleeved anarkali also adds that extra bit of regal charm. And this is the look to go heavy on the jewellery—stacked emeralds, a passa, a haathphool. If you’re going royal, go all the way.

The Gen Z take

It’s perfectly fine to add your own flavour to an already beautiful silhouette. The classic anarkali has its moment, but no one said you couldn’t shift the mood. Start with colour. A rose-pink anarkali paired with a lemon-yellow organza dupatta? Surprisingly fresh. A rich fuchsia or a deep navy version with a V-neckline and a weighty choker strikes the perfect balance between traditional and modern. Relaxed fits deserve a mention too, an anarkali that skims the body without hugging the waist can look just as refined, if not more. Pair with soft waves, open hair, and let the fabric do the work. Don’t be afraid to try something unexpected. And if it doesn’t quite land, the good news is, it’s not your wedding.

In the red

You can’t wear a red lehenga or sari to a wedding—that’s just girl code. But no one said anything about a red-hued anarkali. The trick is to keep it simple, intentional, and just far enough from bridal. Think a maroon kalamkari appliqué anarkali with an embroidered waist, paired with a sheer maroon organza dupatta. Or an orange handblock-printed version with subtle marodi work. Even a deep pink that almost tips into red can hit the right note. Shaadi season screams shades of red, and an understated anarkali is the most considerate way to join the chorus. Add a red bindi, layer up your jewellery stack, and you’ve got a look that nods to tradition without stealing the bride’s thunder.