We’re deep in the depths of fashion season. While the men’s shows have wound up, today marks the first day of couture in Paris. But before you get excited about what’s in store—Rahul Mishra! Glenn Martens’s first show for Margiela!—let’s take a moment for Michael Rider’s Celine debut that happened yesterday. There were lots of similarities with the Dior men’s show—wide-leg culottes, elevated sweatshirts, wonky collars—but also plenty of the practical, covetable womenswear that made Celine under Phoebe Philo so iconic. There were nipped-at-the-waist blazers, sensible flat shoes, and lots of trousers—straight-fit jeans, skinny denims, or slouchy, pleated chinos. At the other end of the spectrum in terms of wearability, Marc Jacobs continued his experiments with proportion in New York. His 2026 runway was all giant puff sleeves, corsets stuffed with padding, hobble skirts, and oversized bows. I’m placing my bets on Natasha Poonawalla wearing look number 13 to her next big event. Keep your eye on The Nod for more from the shows and plenty of reading material for the week ahead.
