The puan, Mizo for ‘cloth’, holds a deep symbolism to the Zo people, a community primarily based in Mizoram and Southern Manipur in India. Much like the Scottish tartan, the varied designs symbolise different clans, ceremonies, and social occasions. A wedding might call for a ceremonial puanchei with intricate motifs, while simpler designs are worn to church or in daily life. For many, puans are deeply personal—gifted by loved ones, inherited from family members, and specially commissioned to mark a milestone.
Designer Malsawmtluangi still treasures the colourful puanchei her mother-in-law gave her on her wedding day. One of the most intricate designs, a puanchei requires the meticulous skill of seasoned artisans, whose work inspired Malsawmtluangi to start Zo Weave in 2016, a brand dedicated to reviving indigenous weaving techniques. Today, she commissions artisans from across Mizoram to bring her puan designs to life.
Another creative who is experimenting with the puan is Patricia Zadeng, a graduate of the National Institute of Design and founder of the label Lapâr. “Earlier, the design of puans was largely led by artisans themselves,” she tells me. “Along with encouraging traditional loom techniques and the use of organic threads, there was a need for design interventions to differentiate contemporary puans from those that people are familiar with.”
Read Swareena Gurung's chats with designers and creatives about why, today, the puan is a canvas for experimenting with newfound sensibilities.
