Accessories06 Dec 20244 MIN

Bijoux for your Birkin?

Aria and Ashna Mehta are out to prove that diamonds are a bag’s best friend

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German Larkin

We love a good sister design duo. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen of The Row, Nicky and Simone Zimmermann who have their eponymous label, Christie and Rosanna Wollenberg of jewellery brand Otiumberg. Great things happen when sisters who share wardrobes, ideas, and tastes come together.

Aria and Ashna Mehta of jewellery brand AM came into the spotlight during the wedding celebrations of Radhika Merchant and Akash Ambani. As guests at all the events, the two played around with dress codes, modelled the best of pieces from their own wardrobe, and even went viral for their accessories. But probably the most striking look was Aria Mehta’s vintage Hermès sari (only 20 were made in the world and their mother acquired one for each sister back in 2011) that she wore with an heirloom bag made of natural rubies and 22ct gold. The bag belonged to their grandmother, who had it commissioned in Gujarat in 2001.

Aria Mehta in a vintage Hermès sari
Aria in an Hermès sari acquired by her mother in 2011

Jewellery has long been an area of focus for the sisters, who founded their brand of ornate bag charms, pendants, sculptural rings, and other diamond-encrusted keepsakes in 2022. 

As heiresses of Indian-Belgian diamond manufacturing and wholesale company Rosy Blue, the pair grew up entrenched in the diamond industry. Their mother has her own jewellery label, Payal New York, while their father the runs retail stores of jewellery label Orra within India. Their childhoods were split between Antwerp, New York, and Dubai, cities synonymous with the diamond industry. Ashna recalls visiting her grandfather’s diamond office in Antwerp as a child, a space stockpiled with parcels of glittering stones. It was there she learned to examine diamonds through a loupe, mesmerised by the kaleidoscopic fire and brilliance within each gem. For Aria, it was afternoons spent with their mother that shaped her earliest design instincts. “After school, I’d head straight to the workshop to help my mum. I’d watch, learn, and start making pieces just for myself. Design came so naturally, it became second nature,” she says.

Although that familial immersion in jewellery craftsmanship forms the foundation of their brand, AM is anything but traditional. It began with an innovation: a bag charm that could also function as a pendant, hair clip, or belt clasp. Its debut piece—a diamond-studded charm featuring the sisters’ shared initials—grabbed enough attention to convince the pair that it was a route worth exploring. “We’ve always loved personalisation. Everyone has initials, and it felt so natural to turn them into something beautiful and versatile,” Ashna explains. The charm has since become one of AM’s signature pieces, beloved for its ability to elevate everything from a casual tote to a luxury Hermès clutch. Just ask Isha Ambani who recently opted for a set of gemstone-encrusted charms with the names of her twins for her little Kelly bag.

An Hermès bag with AM's bag bijoux alphabet charms
AM’s signature alphabet charms on an Hermès Kelly pochette

It also helps that the sisters’ bag wardrobe (of which most are Hermès) numbers about 50 bags between them and their mother. “Mum started collecting 20 years ago, and we treat them as “our” bags,” laughs Ashna.

Of her design influences, Aria, a fashion business graduate from the London College of Fashion, says they’re varied. “One day, I’ll be listening to Afrobeats, the next, I’m sketching something inspired by a Basquiat painting. It’s always changing.” Meanwhile, Ashna, who studied psychology at New York University favours a more introspective approach, with many of her designs reflecting personal memories and experiences, like her sports-filled childhood. “Ashna also created a line of jewellery inspired by basketball and I think a lot of her jewellery and style is inspired by hip-hop, which comes from our New York City upbringing,” Aria chimes in.

Their synergy as sisters is as integral to the brand as the jewellery itself. “We each bring something different to the table. Aria pushes me to think outside the box, and I ground her ideas to make them wearable,” says Ashna. Aria adds, “It’s like a creative ping-pong match. We play to our strengths, but ultimately, everything we create is a true blend of both of us.” While Ashna leads on marketing and sales, Aria takes charge of technical design, translating ideas into detailed sketches and prototypes.

Looking ahead, for the Mehta sisters, everything is coming back full circle. “We want to continue to merge fashion and jewellery. So hopefully more projects like bag bijoux or creating bags out of diamonds and gold again, inspired by our grandmother’s piece from 20 years ago,” says Ashna. “We want to create pieces that don’t just sit in a jewellery box, but are part of your daily life,” adds Aria. Ashna cites a curious design that she’s currently toying with. “I love collecting wine. I’m hoping to craft a diamond wine opener that doubles as a necklace,” she explains. “It’s about creating something you’ve never seen before but instantly want to wear.”

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