Excerpt17 Feb 20265 MIN

Chef Suvir Saran’s memoir captures what it’s like to grow up queer in India

In ‘Tell My Mother I Like Boys’, the chef of New York’s first Indian Michelin eatery writes about love, shame, and self-acceptance at age 40

Vadhera Art Gallery

Towards an Indian Gay Image, Lake Pichola, Udaipur by Sunil Gupta

Vadehra Art Gallery. ©Sunil Gupta

From Singapore, I flew to Delhi, where the air was thick with nostalgia and smog, and the ghosts of my past lurked in every corner. My mother had organised a celebration—a gathering of family and friends in the home where I had grown up. The house was alive with warmth, with the laughter of cousins, like Amrita Bhardwaj, who teased me about my age and my ever-expanding waistline. ‘You’re forty now,’ she declared. ‘But don’t forget to moisturise. Those wrinkles won’t hide themselves.’

Her words were lighthearted, but inside I felt anything but light. My family saw a man who had conquered the world, but I saw a boy who had never fully healed. Delhi wasn’t just a city to me; it was a battlefield, a place where I had learnt to survive but never truly live.

As a teenager, I had faced the world as ‘the other’, a boy who didn’t fit, who couldn’t let anyone see who he truly was. I remembered the love I had found in secret—the three-year relationship with a schoolmate that had been my lifeline. He had been my first kiss, my first embrace, my first taste of what it meant to be seen and cherished. But that love had ended abruptly, painfully. He had disappeared just before our final exams, leaving me with nothing but questions and a heart that ached in silence.

That pain followed me into adulthood, shaping the way I loved and the way I let myself be loved. It whispered that I wasn’t enough, that I didn’t deserve joy, that every happiness was borrowed and could be taken away without warning. As I sat in my childhood home, surrounded by family who celebrated me, those whispers grew louder. They reminded me of the beatings I had endured, the tongue-lashings that left invisible scars, the moments when I believed I deserved every ounce of pain that came my way. They reminded me of the betrayals I had accepted in silence, the betrayals I had inflicted on others, the love I had received but failed to return.

From Delhi, I returned to Hebron, where the snow-covered fields of the farm stood in stark contrast to the chaos within me. Charlie greeted me with his usual warmth, his embrace a balm for wounds I hadn’t yet learnt to name. He had planned a quiet celebration, just the two of us, and when he unveiled his gift, I was left speechless.

Forty presents, each one carefully chosen, each one a testament to his love, his thoughtfulness, his unwavering belief in me. Fragrant sachets, a gilded Bible, a magnifying glass, a pen, boxer shorts—tokens that were both practical and profound. Each one whispered, ‘You are loved. You are seen. You are enough.’

But even in that moment of profound love, the mirror lingered. It reminded me of Robert, the man who had been my first love and my first heartbreak. It reminded me of the dreams I had deferred, the questions I had left unanswered, the truths I had been too afraid to confront. It showed me the ways I had failed Charlie, the ways I had failed myself.

Forty wasn’t just a milestone; it was a reckoning. It was a moment to face the mirror, to see not just my flaws but my possibilities. The boy who had kissed Robert, the man who had built a life with Charlie, the chef who had bridged worlds with his food—they were all me, and yet they weren’t. The mirror didn’t lie, but for the first time, I didn’t run from it. I stood before it, broken but unbowed, ready to confront the truths it revealed and the man I was meant to become.

This excerpt is part of Suvir Saran’s memoir, Tell My Mother I Like Boys, published by Penguin Random House; ₹699

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