In September of 2020, I found myself in Paris. The plan was to spend two months here and then head back to India, but a car accident changed the trajectory of my life. For the first time, I got to witness a ‘socialist healthcare system’ at work—one in which the dignity of life is guaranteed by the State—and soon enough, I decided to make Paris my second home. Back when I used to visit the city as a tourist, I would look at it through the lens of an ‘outsider’. The language barrier made the city challenging to navigate; cultural quirks made the locals, all enviably chic, come off as intimidating, or even rude. The romance promised by the majestic Eiffel Tower remained forever elusive. Now that I walk through the city as a Parisian, it’s a whole different world. Yes, I wear the face of someone perennially ready to complain (complaining is a French birthright, after all), but at the same time, I am drunk in love with the beauty of the city—the architecture, the art, the spirit that seems to celebrate the mere act of being alive.
So here’s my ‘outsider-turned-insider’ guide to experiencing Paris comme les Parisiennes.
Shetty came to Paris by accident, but soon adopted the city as her second home
A cultural characteristic you must quickly adopt
When in Paris, etiquette is everything. You could be choking to death on a baguette, but if you call for help without saying bonjour and s’il vous plaît, people will either pretend they can’t hear you or simply call you rude to your face. Whether it’s with a server at a café, a shop attendant at a boutique, or your Uber driver, always start your conversation with a “bonjour” and be sure to end your request with “s’il vous plait” and “merci”.
A store for the best summer finds
I can’t visit Sous les pavés, le vintage without feeling like Alice in Wonderland. This is my go-to for romantic, flowy dresses from the ’60s and ’70s and antique lingerie from a few decades before that. All the clothes are super feminine, so you can find the perfect summer dress to twirl around in the dreamy European streets. Another girly paradise is Gaijin, which specialises in Japanese brands, though the sizes here do run small.
Japanese vintage and second-hand store Gaijin is a paradise for girly summer finds
A vintage store for all the fashion nerds
Thanx God I’m a VIP is a beautifully curated vintage store where you can find treasures from Dior, Hérmes, and all the heritage Parisian luxury brands in impeccable condition. The entire shop is curated by colour, so there are racks and racks of skirts, pants, dresses, tops, coats, a wide range of hats, and the dreamiest scarves from the 1960s, ’70s and ’80s. There’s also a menswear store right next door, which I love to pop into for fun shirts and vintage ties.
A summer meal you can’t miss
Paris is special in that you have terrasse éphémère, ie. open-air places that pop up only during the summer. Jardin21, a 175sq m pop-up terrace, is a great place to grab lunch or an apéro with friends. Or, if you’re in the mood for an endless display of fashion, head over to Le Progrès, which attracts a lot of young French bobos. You will often spot fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto there, among other fashion elites. Pro tip: always ask for a carafe de l’eau, or tap water, when at a café or restaurant. French tap water is very safe to drink, so don’t fall for the tourist trap of paying for flat or sparkling water.
Le Progrès is a bar where all the young French bobos hang out
A home décor haven
There’s no better haunt for home décor than a Parisian flea market. The Saint-Ouen flea market is unparalleled for furniture, though my favourite one is the Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves. You can get your hands on the most beautiful glassware (Baccarat wine and water glasses, even), vintage china cups and saucers, glass flasks to hold wine, bourbon, vintage watches, and silver cutlery. The flea markets are open only on weekends. Be sure to visit quite early in the morning, as they mostly wrap up by 1 pm. Carry lots of €5 and 10 bills, not bigger denominations. And be at your Indian best and bargain.
A one-stop shop for high-end designer bags
If you’re looking for luxury bags, or even clothes, Opulence Luxury & Vintage, Cornerluxe and ReSee (by appointment only) are good hunting grounds.
Head to ReSee for a covetable collection of high fashion
A farmers’ market to spend an afternoon in
At Marché des Enfants Rouges, you’ll find vendors selling fresh produce, little shops to eat from, and on weekends, many locals having a good time with their friends, drinking wine and listening to music. The last time I was there, Dua Lipa and Jacquemus were casually having lunch next to us at a restaurant called Le Bouillon.
The restaurants with the best food
Poget & De Witte, a little family-run shop, has the freshest oysters. Cloche is a great French restaurant with very friendly staff. Kodawari Ramen is a cool Japanese place that can handle all your ramen cravings. And La Fontaine de Mars is a must for seafood lovers!
Poget @ De Witte has arguably the best seafood in the city
A spot to enjoy Paris like the French do
You must make time for a picnic! Go to Bois de Boulogne, Buttes-Chaumont, Jardin du Luxembourg, or anywhere by the Seine. Take a blanket to lay on, along with baguettes, cheese, charcuterie, chips and dips, a bottle of chilled French white wine (Chablis and Sancerre are my go-to), rosé, or Prosecco.
The store with the best souvenirs
Officine Universelle Buly 1803 is a heritage shop that transports you back in time. All the products, from the perfumes and personal hygiene accessories to the combs, are organically made, and what’s more, can be monogrammed with your initials. The personalised lip balms are the pièce de résistance. You can choose the colour of the box and the leather, and have it embossed in gold with your initials.
Engraved high-end beauty products make for good souvenirs
A place for art beyond the Louvre
Musée de l’Orangerie is my favourite museum to visit. It’s got a stunning collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist paintings, including ‘The Water Lilies’ by Claude Monet. Unlike the Louvre, which can get intimidating and requires a lot of time to visit, this is a museum you can cover in less than an hour. Then, go for a walk by the Jardin des Tuileries. Also, be sure to check out what’s on exhibition at the Palais de Tokyo, Bourse de Commerce and Foundation Louis Vuitton. They usually have extremely well-curated exhibits that are unmissable.
A place known for its ambience
Le Chalet des Îles, nestled in the Bois de Boulogne, the largest forest in the city, in the 16th arrondissement. The food isn’t anything to write home about, but the place is stunning. Set on a tiny island and enveloped by water, the forest is ideal for an afternoon walk and golden-hour drink.
If you're looking for great ambience, head to Le Chalet des Îles
