Remember Taylor Swift kitted out in a cascade of De Beers diamonds at the Golden Globes this year? Or Dua Lipa in her latest YSL Beauty campaign with a full stack of sparkly diamond and gold hoops? Kylie Jenner has so many piercings, she can literally spell out her first name, with some to spare. Welcome to the era of no-holds-barred earscaping—the art of using your ears as a canvas for an array of fine baubles, including studs, jackets, danglers, and threaders, all of which come in precious metals and high-value gemstones. Till as far up or down low as you can—or, as they say in ear-piercing lingo, from cartilage to lobe.
But, as with any art form, there are things to know.
Speaking in piercing
First, a basic introduction to the terms you need to know. Some of the more popular piercings include the snakebite, when you get two holes punctured very close to each other, most commonly on the mid-helix section of the ear, à la Kaia Gerber. Then there’s industrial or scaffold piercing—aka two diagonal holes, one on the helix and the other on the forward helix, connected diagonally via a barbell earring. Miley Cyrus is a famous example. The conch is done towards the centre of the ear curve, the sunken part of cartilage near the opening of the ear canal. You can also go further inside, somewhere near the middle of the ear. Exhibits A and B: Zoë Kravitz and Ashley Graham.
Start here
You don’t have to flaunt a fully perforated ear to get in on the trend. You can start slow and smart, and gradually build your stack.
If you’re a complete rookie—or fear the needle or gun—select styles that are relatively fuss-free, but offer the same impact. Think of the upper-lobe piercing, a variation of the traditional earlobe piercing. According to Deepika Gehani, co-founder, Simsum Fine Jewelry, a brand that specialises in lightweight, 14ct gold jewels, this one is the safest and most popular pick this year. “Done in the fleshy part of the ear, just above the standard lobe piercing, it’s low-pain and quick-healing, and allows for a wide range of options, from simple studs and cuffs to small hoops and huggies,” she explains. “It is perfect for those looking to start a stack without being too out there.” Gehani’s tip: opt for moon, star, and slider designs in diamonds to up the glam anté. “And don’t forget the snakebite, for something slightly bold and edgy.”
Natasha Khurana, founder and designer of contemporary fine jewellery label The Line, who is snakebite-pierced herself, seconds this choice. “It makes for added visual interest, even if the placement is staid.” Khurana’s other favourite is the constellation. “It’s similar to snakebite, when piercings are very close to each other, but in this case, there are more than two. I’ve had mine since 2015, so they clearly have staying power as they’re trending even now.”
Numbers don’t matter, styling does
There are some piercings that are catchy in themselves. The industrial one is an instant crowd-pleaser, so are the conch and rook. “A conch looks beautiful with a statement stud, or a hoop that wraps around the ear. Captive bead rings are quite popular as well,” Gehani says. For the rook—done in the uppermost ridge, between the outer and inner ear—she suggests curved barbells that fit snugly with the ear’s natural curves.
But no matter what you opt for, the art really, is in how you dress up the piercings. For a maximal ear that says ‘All eyes here’, Khurana swears by an array of hoops. “Beyoncé had a whole phase of stacking hoops of varying sizes and girth, and it is forever on my mood board.” She suggests stacking any one gem, over and over—such as an oversized pearl stud, with a few different pearl hoops. “I’m all for the same-same-but-different approach. It gives a very layered richness to the ear.”
Bijou pieces can make just as huge an impression, if you choose them well and try interesting piercing combinations. “Super-tiny studs splashed together look amazing on any ear,” says Khurana. “You can team plain gold with diamonds or pearls or gems. This layering is what brings the most flavour to a stack. Plus, it truly expresses your personal style.”
The last hole
Play around, experiment, mix things up. Just avoid overcrowding. “It is tempting to fill every space available, but that can seem cluttered. Leave some room, so each piece can shine,” advises Gehani. And ensure they fit right—neither so loose that they hang off; nor so tight they poke into your skin. “That can really make or break a look,” concludes Khurana.
