This quaint Georgian city is the perfect destination dupe for Napa Valley

Wine tastings often evoke picturesque settings that are fit for a Nicole Kidman drama to play out—Napa Valley, Tuscany, Sonoma, and Bordeaux come to mind. But anyone who has been there will confirm that these regions, while they offer exquisite wines, somehow end up feeling like a well-worn tourist trap—they are overcrowded and mostly overpriced. Georgia, one of the oldest winemaking countries in the world, stands out: it remains under-the-radar, and it is finally getting the attention it deserves from those seeking highly distinctive natural wines.

It wouldn’t be wrong to say that Georgia is a largely hidden gem—though the capital city of Tbilisi is undoubtedly more popular with tourists, the country has a lot more to offer. During Christmas, Tbilisi buzzes with lively holiday festivities while Mtskheta (just a 30-minute drive from the capital) offers a slower, understated festive cheer.

We’re seated here, at a cosy restaurant overlooking a snow globe-perfect scene in the historic Mtskheta region, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that cradles the magnificent Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and lies just 25 kms away from Tbilisi. The wintry day is bright and cool, punctuated by the occasional chime of church bells. And then comes our first sip of the aromatic Tvishi—a luscious, medium-sweet Georgian white wine that is wonderfully crisp, with subtle notes of ripe pears and green apples—as our gracious server greets us with what will become our holiday chant: Gaumarjos! or cheers in Georgian.

Eat, pray, drink

It was in Mtskheta that Georgia officially became a Christian nation in the 4th century, and it’s evident during December when the whole city lights up. You can trace the town’s unique history on foot, by visiting its various religious landmarks such as the Jvari Monastery, the Samtavro Monastery, and the revered Svetitskhoveli Cathedral—all proudly inscribed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is known to have many miracles as part of its storied history

My favourite was definitely Svetitskhoveli, the resting place of Christ’s robe. Legend has it that Elioz, a Jewish man from Mtskheta, was in Jerusalem at the time of the crucifixion, and somehow got hold of, and returned with, the Jesus’s robe. The story doesn’t stop there, King Mirian built this church in the 4th century, but there stood a wooden column at its centre that could not be lifted from the ground. However, after an all-night prayer vigil led by St Nino, the column miraculously moved to the burial site of the robe. This column is then said to have performed many miracles, giving the church its name—Svetitskhoveli, meaning ‘life-giving column.’

As you walk inside, you can’t help but feel its weighty past, with tall stone arches reflecting Georgian, Byzantine, and Gothic influences alongside faded medieval frescoes and stained-glass windows. There’s something about the place—a candlelit calm set against open fields and endless blue skies. Even if you’re not religious, the serenity and architectural grandeur make this cathedral a must visit on your itinerary.

The walk around the cathedral is buzzing with a charming marketplace. Within its cobblestone streets are shops lined with local artisans, carpet sellers, and restaurants. It’s the perfect place to grab souvenirs—handcrafted local jewellery, hand-painted ceramic plates, or the local favourite, a kantsi (a traditional Georgian wine-drinking horn), which you’re likely to see everywhere in Georgia.

Georgia’s wine country reputation is only confirmed by the vineyards and wine bars you’ll see across the nation. Like any good town, Mtskheta is made for long, slow strolls—houses here come with uniform rust-coloured roofs and gardens where grapevines weave through trellises. But the best way to wrap up a day of sightseeing is with a glass of local wine paired with a sumptuous Georgian cheese board at one of the snug, stylish maranis (family-owned wine cellars). Maranis are not only places where wine is stored, they often even operate as spaces used for crushing and pressing grapes. One look and you’ll know they are the most Insta-worthy wine cellar-bars, featuring vintage décor—artisanal antique furniture and Georgian musical instruments such as the chuniri, changi, and panduri are the first things that catch the eye. Whether you are at a small, cosy marani or a more expansive one, there’s something about them that makes it exceptional and impossible not to love.

The Napheri, Khareba, and Georgino maranis are great to spend your evening tasting wine, exploring winemaking, and scoring some bottles to add to your home collection. And while classic Georgian cheese like Sulguni (a semi-hard, brined cheese) and Imeretian (a mild, almost spongy cheese) shine on these boards, there is also iconic cheese-filled bread, khachapuri that goes down too well with a glass of local wine.

Toasts and tours

Maranis are also that special place where you can actually hang out with the locals. It’s where I discovered that gifting homemade wine is the Georgian way of saying hello. Every local I met was eager to share how they craft their wine in their respective villages, and how it’s a bit of a family affair. 

Archaeological evidence suggests that the first foundations of winemaking were laid here in Georgia. Whole-pressed grapes, skin and stems, all from domesticated vines—are buried in egg-shaped clay pots called qvevri, and left to ferment for five to six months. This is perhaps the oldest-known wine vessel, and tours dedicated to this traditional, earthenware winemaking vessel will confirm that it is still used across Georgia today for its unique, UNESCO-recognised winemaking method. (The qvevri too, in fact, has emerged as some sort of mascot in Georgia in every souvenir shops.) The process is proudly passed down through the generations, like a cherished secret, and these unique, small-batch vintages come with a one-of-a-kind flavour.

A regular wine-tasting tour can lead you from Mtskheta to Georgia’s other winemaking villages in Kakheti, the eastern region. If you get a chance, you must sample the lush vineyards of Tsinandali or Telavi, the medieval wine capital, or Sighnaghi. Georgians take great pride in their renowned Saperavi (red) and Mtsvane (white) wines, and during Christmas, a glass of mulled Georgian Saperavi is a tradition you cannot pass.

The highlight of a wine tour though is the supra, a lively feast where the wine flows freely as the tamada, or toastmaster, who leads round after round of ‘toasts’. Traditionally, many of these toasts were made in a kantsi, and once the horn was raised, you had to drink its entire contents. Although it’s an ancient tradition, it continues to thrive today along these tours—you can sign up for these on platforms like Viator or Eat This! Tours.

After a week in Georgia, you might find yourself feeling guilty of having too much fun—but also leaving as a more enriched traveller. And if you needed one last reason to book that ticket, here it is: all of this comes without the hefty price tag of a typical European holiday.

Best time to visit: October to July

Budget for a week: ₹35,000 a week approx. (including stay, excluding flight)

How to get there: There are direct flights to Tbilisi from New Delhi