As far as chef Takahashi is concerned, the next big thing in India’s Japanese dining scene may have nothing to do with ramen or sushi. The tempura master has spent 25 years working with the delicately dipped umami technique at Tenya, a legacy chain in Tokyo best known for taking the fried food item from indulgence to everyday comfort food. He’s now conceptualised Hachi by Tenya, a new diner in Bengaluru’s Whitefield, which brings flash-fried tempura front and centre on its menu.
Japanese food usually makes one think of spicy tuna rolls, zig-zag wasabi, and soy to finish it off. If you’re in Bengaluru, you probably also dream of the brothy ramen at chef Kavan Kuttappa’s Naru, which is notoriously hard to get your hands on. But Takahashi dreams of tempura, so the food programme at Hachi is built around celebrating a new hero.
Seated at the intimate 40-seater housed on the first floor of BLR Brewing Company, I wait for the chef to arrive. Like any master, Takahashi steps out of his lair (the open kitchen) dressed fit for the title in a crisp white chef coat and a chef’s hat that stays unmoved even as he bobs his head passionately while describing his love for tempura. “In my country, we see spring, summer, fall and winter, and you can tell what season it is by the tempura that’s being served,” the chef explains. “In spring we have sakura shrimp, but in the fall we have matsutake mushroom tempura; there are few dishes that can adapt with such flavourful ease.”
Hachi by Tenya is a 40-seater Japanese diner, with tempura at its heart
I can’t tell if it is the smell of briney miso in the air or the chef’s poetic ode to his craft but when the lightly fried veggies arrives at the table, my fingers grab a piece even before my eyes can feast on the beautiful bamboo baskets that accompany the tempura. On the master’s recommendation, I try the assorted vegetable tempura platter and Hachi’s special tempura rice bowl. The first is a garden of freshness, chunky slices of sweet potato, okra, bell peppers, mushroom—and the surprise entry—coriander, briefly batter-fried and served with yuzu paste, sancha salt and matcha powder.
Unlike a desi pakora that must be torn apart to reveal which veggie it’s hiding inside, the main character in the tempura is clearly on display. The crunchy sprigs of coriander are undoubtedly my favourite. I have never seen the garnish, typically reserved as an afterthought, be such a scene stealer, and the condiments are perfect for a dip-and-bite. The Hachi’s Special is just as decadent with crispy chicken, prawns and seaweed served over rice, and a house-special umami miso broth.
“I want to bring authentic tempura to India but I’m also aware that people here relish stronger, more layered flavours,” says Takahashi. “So, we kept the frying process the same, but we decided to serve the dish with a series of condiments to satisfy the purists and those who want to experiment.” I can’t lie; as a serial dipper, I’m so glad they did. The crunchy sweet potato tastes a little different, almost a little better each time with the wasabi mayo, the Rayu (Japanese chilli oil), the red miso and the tea salts.
Purists should try the spicy tofu, which is soft and pillowy with just the right amount of zest, and the Tantanmen ramen, which is an explosion of spices; definitely not for the faint of heart. The eatery’s ambience also follows its lead from the menu, stepping away from the usual Japanese tropes: there is no sign of cherry blossoms, lanterns, LED lights or Naruto here.
Although the diner does have a decal of Hokusai’s best-known painting, ‘The Great Wave off Kanagawa’, on a feature wall, the rest of the decor is quite unassuming with an austere Japanese vibe—think old-school wooden tables and no-fuss serveware. “This is definitely a more upscale restaurant than the Tenya in Japan, but we wanted to retain some of the simplicity,” adds Takahashi, looking towards the 12-seat chef’s counter that wraps around the open kitchen, allowing guests to chat with the master, observe his knife work, and witness tempura being swished around in batter and flash-fried to golden perfection.
Biting into my last course, a tempura ice cream dusted with matcha (so far from the greasy fried ice cream of my childhood), I ask the chef why the Japanese chain decided to make its Indian foray. “We want to take tempura across the world,” he says; Tenya also has outposts in the Philippines, Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong, and Taiwan. “In India, people have a diverse palate, and the country has the largest population, so I imagine our chances of succeeding are much higher,” adds the tempura master. After taste-testing a little bit of everything on their menu, I have to admit his suspicion is right: this is the crispiest, lightest tempura that money can buy—at least without crossing the border.
Meal for two: ₹2,000
Timings: 12 pm to 4 pm and 7 pm to 11:30 pm (open all days)
Address: 2, behind HDFC Bank, Hoodi-Whitefield, Bengaluru
Reservations: @hachi.ind on Instagram
