Are Indian men ready for culottes?

Will we see Indian men in culottes? It’s a contentious question, and menswear designer Ashish N Soni isn’t quite convinced. “As of now, no,” he admits wryly about the wide-leg trousers’ potential in the Indian market.

But here’s the twist: Soni’s first look at the recent FDCI India Men’s Weekend 2025 in Jaipur was a deconstructed raw denim bomber jacket, with a lace tie, pearls, and a pair of culottes. A hybrid trouser that lies somewhere between a pant and skirt, Soni’s culottes were sharply pleated, with the hemline just high enough to flash socks and loafers. “There’s definitely been a shift in what men are wearing,” Soni reflects. “Ten years ago, talk about gender fluidity was mostly happening abroad. Now, there’s a growing awareness in India. Fashion weeks are often dismissed as out of touch, but for me it’s about imagining what the future could look like and how people might dress in it. Culottes are part of that future.”

Soni wasn’t the only one experimenting with the silhouette. Antar-Agni by designer Ujjawal Dubey offers a linen-blend version that is so voluminous it’s hard to tell where one leg ends and the other begins. Dubey often changes up the silhouette, pairing it with an organza-satin applique kurta and fitted bomber jacket from his womenswear collection for a more festive mood. “Culottes are traditionally high-waisted, but in our version they are lower; the drape begins at the waist,” Dubey says. “This design intervention makes the garment more comfortable and allows for more freedom around the crotch area.” Trouser shapes offer a key insight into cultural mores and moods. “Biologically, skirts are better suited for men than women,” he adds, pointing out that certain cultures focus on allowing more freedom of movement rather than sticking to rigid clothing rules. “Take lungis, for example. No trouser can match that level of free movement.”

The cut-off point can land anywhere on the leg—from just above the ankle to the lower calf—like the denim pair designed by Nought One, Abhishek Paatni’s streetwear label. His resemble the baggiest Bermuda shorts you’ve ever seen. “I went big on volume, didn’t I?” Paatni jokes. “Personally, I am not a fan of cropped pants, so I was going for a hybrid of capris and trousers, pulling from Japanese influences, with outsized pockets as a key feature.” Paatni’s collections draw from uniforms—military, sci-fi, and motor racing, evident in the F1 flag patches, and tyre-mark prints on his latest collection. “I don’t come from a fashion background; I studied Engineering and then got an MBA. My dad’s military career meant I moved around a lot. I’m also a huge Star Trek fan and a biker,” says Paatni. “When I design, it’s about the interaction of men’s and women’s silhouettes, and honestly, I don’t care much for what people think.”

Paatni knows that the Indian man isn’t quite ready for what he calls, “experimental fashion”. “While more men are getting into grooming and custom clothing, we still have a long way to go. Labels tend to make clothing monotonous; we need to move beyond basic purposes. I would love to see a guy wear my culottes to a club or even just for coffee.”

Culottes have rebellious roots. Back in the 18th century, French aristocrats wore them as haute couture. But when the French Revolution hit, revolutionaries—dubbed “sans culottes”—took the style for themselves, flipping the bird to the establishment and turning their “skirted” bottoms into a symbol of defiance. By the Victorian era, women began wearing “split skirts”, which allowed them to ride bikes and horses with unprecedented freedom. What started as a practical choice became a symbol of women’s rights. In 1931, fashion icon Elsa Schiaparelli’s take on the divided skirt was laughed off as “manly”, with some suggesting it had lesbian undertones. This resistance only fuelled its rise.

Today, culottes have shaken off their controversial past and are embraced by labels like Dries Van Noten, Jil Sander, Marc Jacobs, and Loewe, continuing the work of Japanese pioneers like Comme des Garçons, Issey Miyake, and Yohji Yamamoto. Rick Owens is another advocate of the skirt-like trouser.

What fans really want to talk about is how these culottes feel—both in style and attitude. “They’re so versatile and freeing,” explains Selman Fazil, 29, menswear stylist, who loves playing with the rules of men’s fashion. He owns two pairs: a grey corduroy pair he found in the Zara’s menswear section in Mumbai, and a tailor-made pair in dark suiting material. He pairs them with a pleated skirt and heeled boots, but gladiator sandals work, too. For a more polished look, he suggests adding a long silk shirt, or even a kurta or trench coat.

But for culottes to really catch on with the regular guy—think lawyers, bankers, doctors—Soni trusts in celeb endorsements to move the needle. “Saif Ali Khan is often snapped wearing super-wide, skirt-like Afghani pyjamas. Maybe it’s time Ranveer Singh gave culottes a go.”