“Sri Lanka is full of surprises,” designer Annika Fernando shares, “Whether it’s watching the flag lowering at Galle Face Hotel or swimming with sea turtles in Thalpe, the island leaves you with stories you’ll want to tell forever.” Fernando knows what she’s talking about. Born into a family that has defined Colombo’s contemporary aesthetic (the Fernandos own and run Paradise Road, The Gallery Café, and Tintagel Hotel), she is the ultimate insider.
As the founder and design director of PR Sri Lanka, a cutting-edge concept lifestyle store that bridges local craftsmanship with global design, she’s become a pivotal voice in the island’s creative renaissance. Her work spans fashion, design, and cultural preservation, making her uniquely positioned to offer an authentic, nuanced guide to Sri Lanka. From secluded beaches to quirky bars to local designers, this itinerary goes well beyond the usual tourist spots. So, pack your bags, because paradise is calling.
A boutique hotel that is also a modern-day architectural marvel
Trebartha East The Round House in Ahangama—a coastal town just 2.5 hours from Colombo—is a four-bedroom contemporary villa that sits in the middle of a stunning 12-acre cinnamon estate. Resplendent Ceylon’s Wild Coast Tented Lodge (at the edge of Yala National Park) is a safari-camp with glam tents and bamboo shell public areas—when we visited, we literally had elephants at our doorstep. And then there’s Japanese architect Shigeru Ban’s property for Koenraad Pringiers, Villa Vista Mirissa, set on a cliff with sweeping views in the South Coast’s Weligama.
The most interesting neighbourhood to walk around
I love walking through Pettah in Colombo. First, grab a dosa, some South Indian coffee, and the best steamed vadai at Sri Surya’s on Sea Street. Then take a walk, stop at the Pettah Town Hall for a tour and drop in on the ‘meeting’ on the first floor (you’re in for a surprise; I’m not sharing details!). Head towards 2nd Cross Street for the best falooda (I ask for mine to be a little less sweet) at Bombay Sweet Mart. On the way, you will pass a kovil (a Hindu temple), and the beautiful Red Mosque. Drop in, pay your respects, and marvel at the city’s diversity.
The best place to plan a picnic
Secret Beach in Ahangama, which is no longer a secret, is still a beautiful spot that you can now find on Google Maps. My family and I stop at Big Mighty to pick up our gourmet burgers and sandwiches, which we have on a picnic rug on the beach, and buy thambili (king coconut) from the elderly couple that’s set up shop there. The walk there may not appear attractive, but it’s not long and is fully worth it.
Best place for antique hunting and thrifting
I love the antique shops on the South Coast, which are easy to find on the main Galle Road, especially around the Ambalangoda zone. And in the city, there’s Barefoot and, of course, Paradise Road for local design. For thrifting, shop online with newbie local IG feed by my stylish friends Leesha and Mino (@lata_pata_vintage).
A great bar that locals frequent
Uncle’s Bar in Colombo has a chilled out Sri Lankan aesthetic with a touch of humour. It’s super fun and relaxed. Music could be live with a DJ—usually there’s retro, ’90s hip hop, or even a guest appearance by a Tina Turner impersonator. You must order the Aunty Agnes—a cocktail of gin, local mandarin and lemon. Pair it with the cheese toast, make sure you take a bite of the pickled green chilli with every mouthful.
A local food to try
Kotthu at the legendary Colpetty Pilawoos is unmissable. Hotel de Plaza is newer, but also a good place to try the dish. It’s always best to order this after a late night out, but you can get ‘glammed-up’ versions in many hotels and restaurants. I would also recommend you try local sweets like love cake and our version of cream caramel, watalappan, which is made with jaggery and a hint of rose water (the good ones have cashew nuts as well). They may look like Indian mithai, but they are very different. Then there are the hoppers at Renuka Hotel’s Palmyrah, which celebrates Northern Sri Lankan food. I love the crab meat curry and the ash plantain sambal here, too.
The best thing to bring back from a Sri Lankan supermarket
I know Indians love their namkeen as much as we do, so go for local snacks like cassava chips, murukku and the varieties of cashew nuts. Cassava chips can be purchased on the roadside, but a quick fix is Rancrisp’s salt and pepper version. The brand also does burnt cashews, which are a delicious alternative. Another great buy is the chili pakada, a gram flour-based snack available in most big supermarkets.
The best way to experience local life
Banyan Camp is an eco resort that offers many back-to-nature experiences
While Thalpe is known for its beaches, just 100m inland, you’ll find yourself in a forest, at the stunning Sri Yoga Shala. There are many treatments on offer, there’s a beautiful pool, and the on-site Café Durga serves excellent rice and curry. The whole vibe is authentically local, intimate and in touch with nature. Banyan Camp is yet another special hidden gem in a remote area of Udawalawe. Close to wildlife parks and on the water, it’s an unfiltered local idyll.
A touristy thing that’s totally worth it
Sunset drinks on the checkerboard at Galle Face Hotel, looking out at the sea. I’d do it with a Bloody Mary and devilled cashew nuts. Be there at 5:30 pm to experience the traditional Sri Lankan flag lowering, accompanied by bagpipers in procession.
A beach if you’re looking for a secluded day out
Bentota is a great spot. It really was the original resort town before the Expressway opened. It’s only 40 minutes via the highway to reach from Colombo—the beaches are so quiet here, even in peak season. It’s also the place to anchor yourself when visiting the Bawa brothers’ garden estates, Brief and Lunuganga. Have lunch at Nyne Hotels, enjoy the beach and then have tea at Lunuganga. Another great spot is Sugar Beach in Mount Lavinia. It may be a little more crowded on weekends, but during the week it’s a great place to enjoy the beach when on a city visit.
A most buzzing street to visit
Park Street Mews in Colombo comes alive in the evening with some great local restaurants and bars. You’ll love Nikki for authentic Greek fare, Kuuraku for Japanese, Uncle’s Bar, of course, and there’s a new live music bar opening very soon called Jazzebel that I am looking forward to visiting. During season, there are street parties and sometimes cool design markets for budding entrepreneurs on Sundays.
An off-the-menu dish you should try
Wijaya Beach, in Thalpe on the South Coast, does an amazing spaghetti vongole and oysters au naturelle, which are so fresh that they are stored in the sea in front, awaiting an order on availability. A passionfruit daiquiri to wash it all down won’t disappoint. And, while waiting, go swim with the sea turtles in the rock pool in front. You can even feed them seaweed!
A Sri Lankan designer you wish more people knew about
Kūr by Kasuni Rathnasuriya is the first young designer to celebrate the art of beeralu lace and highlight this craft in contemporary design clothing. We can’t wait to launch her new collection in January 2025. There’s also Aadhi Jayaseelan of Kayamai, who uses her art to tells the story of a marginalised community in Sri Lanka, the Malaiyaha Tamils in the Tea Country.
And finally, a local festival to plan a trip around
My sister Saskia launched KĀLĀ. It’s a dynamic arts festival in Colombo, and next year’s edition (February 10-28) promises exciting collaborations with the University of Visual & Performing Art (which completes 75 years) and Cinnamon Life – City of Dreams (the Island’s first integrated resort), featuring special events, talks, and workshops that showcase Sri Lanka’s rich artistic landscape. Experiencing the local art scene in full bloom is a great way to enjoy Colombo.
