Bookmark this ‘eat-like-a-local’ guide to Tokyo

Around 9 pm on a chilly February night, I stood in a queue outside Banninriki ramen shop in Taitō City, about 30 minutes from Tokyo’s city centre. The regulars ahead of me seemed unfazed by the cold, waiting patiently to get their ramen before heading home. Fifteen minutes later, we were called in.

Banninriki is a 12-seater, with an open kitchen at the centre, a rectangular table around it, and a shokken (a ticket vending machine) near the entrance for your orders—the menu here is only in Japanese and payment, only in cash. There is an uncanny similarity with eatery you may have seen in the Netflix series, Midnight Diner.

Within a few minutes of handing our ticket to the chef, we were served our abura soba (broth-less oil ramen)—the dish Banninriki is known for. The thick bouncy noodles are tossed in chilli oil and served with pork, and served with a soft-boiled egg, fried garlic, and green onion.

Banninriki is not a one-off. Tokyo is peppered with such mom-and-pop spots. And it’s easy to spot them: a noren (the traditional curtain) at the entrance, a queue of locals outside, and a menu that’s entirely in Japanese.

They exist right alongside the city’s many Michelin-starred heavyweights (160 at last count, which is the highest in the world). Sure, you must add Kagurazaka Ishikawa, Ginza Koju, and Sushi Masuda to your itinerary, but these humble, traditional eateries are like an authentic tasting menu of Tokyo.

In the last 10 years since my first trip to Tokyo, much has changed–there are more menus in English, the number of cosy cafes and tiny eateries have skyrocketed and each neighbourhood is more densely packed with 7 Elevens and Family Marts than ever before. What hasn’t changed is that is that the hyperlocal Japanese restaurants continue to be packed with the locals or tourists from neighbouring countries. And once in a while there is a curious tourist like me, guided by my Japanophile partner, Google Maps, and a hunger to explore the cuisine.

Tokyo’s train stations are culinary hotbeds

There are many Instagram reels that have extolled the wonders of a 7-Eleven egg sando, but I'll go out on a limb here to say that Tokyo’s best food can be found under its train stations. Ueno station is one of the best places to sample this. Ameya-Yokocho in Ueno is a lively stretch packed with small to mid-size eateries, including some where you have to stand and eat, other dingy izakayas, and even some departmental stores selling everything from cough syrup to eye shadow.

Shoryu is located in the midst of this chaos—a small six-seater, family-run eatery. It serves gyoza and yakisoba, the classic Japanese stir-fried noodles, along with a small but good selection of sake. Not too far away is Nodaya, which specialises in unagi. Here, the menu has set meals featuring grilled eel, rice and sides like eel liver soup, potato salad and tamagoyaki. Every passing train rattles the roof, turning this diner into a full-sensory quintessential Tokyo experience.

Close to Kinshicho station, a major hub connected by three main lines—Chūō-Sōbu Line, Sōbu Line, and the Tokyo Metro Hanzōmon Line—you will find gems like Tempura Suzuki. Here, everything comes crisp and golden on your plate—seafood, chicken, and vegetables, served with rice, miso broth, and egg. Season the tempura with flavoured salts to maximise the flavour.

Eat cake for breakfast

A typical Japanese breakfast includes rice, fish, and soup, but not many Tokyo restaurants open that early. Instead, coffee, cake and croissants are the easiest go-to picks. Carb loaders should turn to Café Den in Negishi. This family-run spot is known for its fuss-free omelette and ham sandwiches. There is also Rebon Kaisaiyu in Taito City, which is an old bathhouse converted into a café that now serves coffee, gelato, and iconic tuna melt sandwiches.

Hybrid cafes are a global phenomenon, and in Tokyo, you’ll find grub at a store or even a gallery. The TOE Library Parc in Matsugaya is a vintage-style café-cum-thrift store with upcycled furniture. Close by, Ki Wood Gallery and Café in Sumida City has hand-crafted wooden pots, pans and cutting boards on display. Sandwiches and a great selection of beer from Japan and around the world can be found at the Art Deco-like Mikkeller Tokyo in Shibuya that opens at noon. It may be started by a Dane living in Japan, but the Japanese brews and space designed by Japanese architect Yusuke Seki make it a legit local haunt.

But my favourite is Lucite Café in Yanagibashi, the erstwhile Geisha district of Tokyo. Set inside an old house, overlooking the Sumida River, it serves a homestyle meal of rice, seasonal pickled vegetables, stewed fruits—I still remember the kumquat with honey we were served—and chicken and vegetable stew for lunch. The meal is gentle, like the place, and a great way to experience Japanese home-style cooking.

Party like the Japanese salaryman

Cafes in Tokyo usually shut at 5 pm, making way for izakayas, the Japanese taverns central to the city’s nightlife. And as evening sets in, the salarymen take over—suited on packed trains during the day and spilling into standing bars, under train stations, and around crowded tables. Just hanging.

From 6 to 10 pm they let their hair down over cheap tipple—a 150ml sake costs ¥500- ¥1,000, beers, and highball—and food that only belongs at an izakaya.

Like chakna in India and aperitivo in Italy, izakayas offer complimentary pickles which you may be tempted to order on repeat. At most places, the servers may oblige for a round two, but beyond that you’re just pushing your luck.

There are some unsaid rules at izakayas. One, every person on the table has to order a drink. There’s a two-hour limit, if people are queuing up outside. And finally, you need to pay a small otoshidai or table charge (anywhere from ¥200–¥1,000) that includes a complimentary otoshi or appetiser, served only once.

The otoshis are the most exciting part of the experience because you never know what you will get. The appetisers vary depending on the place and season—pickled vegetables like cucumbers in summer or turnips in winter. Some even serve noodles, fish, or cheese and chocolate.

Izakayas are also a great way to try a range of Japanese staples like sushi, sashimi, stir-fried mushrooms, grilled shishamo, yakitori, karaage, gyoza and tamagoyaki. For first-timers, skip the raw chicken and beef or horse sashimi—it’s not meant for the unadventurous. Pickled cucumbers and fried potatoes are always safe bets.

Some izakayas come with a speciality menu. Ittokuya izakaya near Sangenjaya station, a local favourite, specialises in sashimi. Nonbei, a short walk from Ittokuya, serves sashimi, batter-fried fish and grilled calamari. While these close early, Ueno has plenty izakayas to keep you going if you are planning to stretch it until midnight.

On my last trip, I walked into Yakigai Uguisu near Uguisudani station, which specialises in shellfish and has no meat on the menu. The complimentary appetiser was snails, lightly steamed with little seasoning. Even before I had ordered the umami-esque soy-butter tossed squid and shiitake, I was convinced, Tokyo’s greatest meals lie inside these tiny outposts.