There’s always a brand-new bar, a hot new chef, a splashy new dining spot, a pop-up to reserve, a sauce to taste, or, even at your usual place, an exciting new menu to try. Check Please, our monthly rundown of food news, is just the kind of edit for those who may not eat out every night but love to be in the know.
The annual hectic season is upon us again, and it shows. Bengaluru has three big openings—an iconic Chinese eatery from Mumbai, a rooftop brew garden with an octopus installation that has connections to Goa, and a not-so-secret speakeasy that somehow summons both a sensual Greek god and a German philosopher. Hyderabad’s newest bar comes with serious cocktail chops, a food menu that stands on its own, and a transportive, trippy vibe—its restored TV sets sometimes show scenes from The Big Lebowski’s Wild Bowling Dream. A new plate-shattering Greek spot returns to Mumbai. Jaipur gets Jamavar. And Delhi gets more drama. It is October and Diwali kicks off the countrywide party season, so everyone’s doing a new menu. But wait, first let’s catch some respite with a couple of Oktoberfest pints at our local pub.
Openings
LOQA, Hyderabad
Indeed, LOQA opened a couple of months ago, in early August, but it’s been making its way gently, organically, into the plans of anyone living in Hyderabad and anyone visiting as well. Turn right from Terrai, the neo-Telangana restaurant in HITEC City opened by the same founders, Anisha Deevakonda and Rohit Kasuganti, and right there is LOQA’s angled door.
Tipplers must get across a vestibule that sets the mood with a projector, boxy tube TVs and wiggle picture lightboxes with surreal images (no spoilers). Past a second door is a bar that moves from intimate to lively (on a weekday night) but never gets raucous. There is Channapatna lacquered wood on the ceiling, and a mossy green marble bar counter on which a ‘vibe officer’ will set down drinks with ingredients such as fig and cheese brandy, red wine in chicken, and fluffy pineapple. These have names such as Glitch, Situationship, and Boom Boom Begum, and they are good, allowing lovers of classic cocktails to lean into more adventurous tipples.
For teetotallers, the food too is worth revisiting. There is Deevakonda’s favourite pumpkin, raw mango sambusa, and we totally get why she loves it. Dosa crisps come vertically wedged into the Madras curry aliglot, and hamachi avocado ceviche appears in coconut crema. LOQA is a Telangana bar but also a bar that could be in a big city anywhere in the world. At closing time, get one of LOQA’s China box-style biryanis to go. They’re good enough to enjoy for a hangover breakfast—it is Hyderabad, after all.