Goan locals can’t get enough of Oya’s Umami

How do you build a successful restaurant? For some, the answer is simple: Get going with the PR buzz. In that sense, Oya’s Umami in Goa is a bit of an enigma. It opened in May without fanfare. There were no media previews, no launch party. No influencers teasing you with their picture-perfect posts. Yet, the space remains packed; there’s usually a queue. Reservations are mandatory. And customers who snag a table do not let go of them quickly.

And you’ll see why, once you taste what’s on the table.

My introduction to the menu came via the black sesame chilled noodles. It may look like a beige and brown dish, but texturally there is variety—the springiness of handmade noodles and finely minced chicken sprinkled with sesame seeds and herbs. It is light, clean, a bit nutty, and creamy with a sesame paste sauce that hugs the noodles like an old friend. It’s a dish you can eat two whole bowlfuls of...like I did.

Then again, I’m no stranger to Ati Aier’s food. I first encountered her culinary genius at a cigar event in Goa in 2023. At a table laden with snacks, my eyes, like a true blue Goan, went straight to the beef and the chicken. The beef in question: a light, airy and finely shredded floss. The chicken? A juicy smoked pickle. I scarfed down several helpings of both, beginning a torrid love affair with Aier’s Naga cuisine. Ever since, I’ve been a fan of Aier and her then home venture, Oya’s Umami (‘oya’ means ‘elder sister’ in the language of the Ao Naga tribe, to which Aier belongs).

Aier’s journey in Goa began as a home chef in 2019, when the Kohima-born Aier moved to the coastal state. A pregnant Goan woman who had grown up eating food from the north-east reached out to her with specific requests—smoked pork, pork with bamboo shoot, and Naga-style shredded beef pickle. Aier complied, using her backyard in Dona Paula to smoke the meats. “I had been hearing about people taking orders for food from home and thought I could explore the same,” she recalls.

Like with anything good, the word spread. First came a pop-up at the now-shuttered Rumi in Taleigão, then appearances at the Serendipity Arts Festival, and the Carnival celebrations, and Aier soon became the go-to person for anyone craving a taste of the north-east. Today, her products retail as Goa Meat Co and can be found at departmental stores like Delfino’s in Porvorim, and cafes and restaurants such as Basic B in Aldona, Grumps in Sangolda, and Larder & Folk in Panjim.

Until three months ago, when Oya’s Umami found a physical space, Goa had a handful of places serving food from the north-east: there was Meiphung in Baga with its tangy glasses of rice beer, Potz N Grillz in Sangolda, and pop-ups hosted by Alistair Lethorn of the now-shut Aal’s Kitchen. Back then, Aier’s fans would eagerly wait for her to announce dates for her supper club, which she hosted at her home. In May, they finally had a place to gather.

Oya’s Umami in Panjim’s Miramar area is a small eatery, just 350 sqft, that can accommodate seven tables and 35 people at most. The decor is sparse—a few recycled paper lanterns here, some framed photos there—but the space is charming and has plants all around. Smaller groups will find a spot indoors among their teppanyaki-style seating, while the outdoor area can accommodate up to 20 people.

The menu is short, with less than 20 items, but there’s plenty of beef, pork, chicken, and smoked meats. We counted seven dishes that could pass off as vegetarian fare. Unlike Aier’s supper club, Oya’s Umami is not just Naga food but also inspired Asian street fare, and a whole lot of fermented soybean paste (axone).

The pastrami and avocado salad is a protein-lover’s dream: tender slices of beef, avocado, some pomegranate seeds, pumpkin seeds and lettuce for the crunch, all tied together by a sweet mustard dressing. The summer citrus salad tastes delicious in other seasons too—chunky apple, pomelo, and a healthy dusting of sesame seeds pair with smoked chicken for a bold, fresh salad that masquerades as a main dish.  

If it wasn’t already clear, there’s no shying away from meat at Oya’s Umami: trotters, beef soupy noodles, chicken rice, beef rice, a stellar beef stir fry with bok choy and homemade kimchi are on the menu. The beef fry is a standout, as are the cold soba noodles. For my table of six, we couldn’t stop at just one Naga smoked pork chilli. For the adventurous, there’s axone chicken karaage, juicy, saucy Bang Bang Prawns, and anishi (dried, fermented colocasia leaves) in the beef stir fry and the beef rice bowl. Some dishes have fermented crab too. And, of course, the ghost pepper haunts many bites.

The perfect end to a night here is the sticky rice with mango. It is warm, creamy, and fruity, a celebration of seasonality and simplicity.

There is no alcohol on the menu, and you won’t miss it. Instead, there are three mocktails—a tangy passionfruit picante, a floral roselle sumac and ginger drink, and a fruity sweet peach iced tea. The drinks are good, but the focus remains on the food.

And even in its new location, there’s the warmth of Aier’s home dinners.

Meal for two: ₹2,000

Address: Ground floor, Risara house, Vasudev Dempo Marg, Tonca, Miramar, Panjim, Goa

Timings: Noon to 10.30 pm. Closed on Tuesdays

Reservations: 9226780802