Brief Encounters28 Oct 20257 MIN

This Gen Z-er is trying to build the next Aesop out of India

Aahan Chatterjee of Project Qaafi wants to make beauty from India feel less “baba in the forest”, more “Brooklyn bathroom shelf”

Aahan Chatterjee, founder of beauty brand Project Qaafi, at the Beauty&You awards

Name: Aahan Chatterjee

Age: 25

Profession: Founder of Project Qaafi

Location: Mumbai, India

Why you should know him: Chatterjee is quietly building one of the most interesting new beauty brands out of India. Project Qaafi doesn’t look or sound like the glossy, Ayurvedic-heritage brands that dominate the market—it’s moody, design-led, and slowly showing up in the bags of the cool crowd. Less than a year in, Qaafi was already a finalist for Estée Lauder Companies’ Beauty&You awards held in partnership with Nykaa—a programme that scouts the most promising new beauty start-ups in the country.

Why he started Project Qaafi: “A lot of folks in my family have worked in FMCG and the beauty and personal care space in India. I worked in advertising and marketing, but I’ve always been more obsessed with brand building. I’m an indulgent beauty consumer myself, and I was tired of how bland and repetitive everything looked. Every brand here speaks the same tongue and communicates in the same way. They sell to the same people through the same influencers. I wanted to build something that actually had legs—something that could feel cult and have longevity. I kept thinking about brands like Diptyque and Le Labo—every touchpoint is engineered to make you feel a certain way. There were already enough fish in the ocean, but I thought we’ll do something that no one else does: be edgy and play the Liquid Death playbook.”

Where the name ‘Qaafi’ comes from: “There’s no deep thought behind it. It’s from a phrase that we say colloquially— “Zyaada nahi, bas qaafi”—not too much, not too little, just enough. I feel like skincare is alternating like a pendulum between two extremes: you’re either going intensive with seven-step Korean routines or very minimal with one product that claims it’s going to solve eight or nine things.”

Updating the Indian skincare playbook: “Qaafi is a contemporary take on this very Westernised reductive notion the world has of Indian skincare. If you can name three Indian beauty brands that are doing well in the West, they’re probably all Ayurveda-focused, talking about kansa guashas hand-welded by artisans in a village near Jaipur or oils passed down five generations before it came to you. I think we’re either mimicking the West or propagating this narrative that in India, instead of cars we’re all hanging out on elephants and chilling in palaces, or there’s a baba or sadhu sitting under a tree. Qaafi is like a quiet rebellion against that. Ayurveda does give you mileage, but it’s not the entire story.”

Not Scandi-minimal, not Indian-maximal: “There’s this sliver of doubt you have—whether to categorise us as minimal or maximal—and that is exactly what we wanted to do with our creative territory. The design is by Erth Co., a brilliant agency based in Mumbai. Having been on the agency side, I know that feedback loops are endless, but with them we locked Qaafi on the very first iteration. It’s so rare to have a creative partner that just gets your vision the second you send the brief. They’re geniuses.”

He’s aware it looks like Subko: “I have gotten feedback that our design is a bit similar, so I’m trying to make sure it feels different, because we’re in a different category. But I do think we have a shared mission. Subko has built an experience with coffee that almost doesn’t feel Indian, although it is deeply Indian. It’s painting a very nice contemporary picture of India on the global stage, and I hope so can Qaafi.”

His North Star brands: “An Aesop hand wash for me is nothing extraordinary, but the perceived value that it holds across the globe is tremendous. To elevate something as simple as a hand wash into the ultimate status symbol in someone’s home—it takes a different breed of brand builders to do that. I also think of the brands that existed when our grandparents used products—like Boroline or Vaseline. It comes in the most boring packaging, but it does the job with no frills. The best lip balms in India can’t compete with what Vaseline Lip Therapy is doing. That’s the beauty of creating a legacy brand—ensuring people have mindful consumption and know why their brand and product exists.”

Why he’s selling hand cream: “If I launch a face wash, what reason does anyone have to buy it beyond just experimentation? To retain a customer, I need to reel them in with something that feels very different, which is why the hand cream. It’s a niche; you wouldn’t expect everyone to carry one, but you’re able to visualise a certain set of people—curators, tastemakers—who don’t leave their house without it. That’s who we’re targeting right now. So, when the world is trying to sell you the same old sunscreens and cleansers, I’m trying to sell you something that you’ve completely ignored, which is hand care. Nécessaire has created the ultimate hand cream and people rave about it. Everyone’s obsessed with the L’Occitane hand cream, but not a lot of people like the 25 per cent shea butter, because their hands sweat. We’ve made one with just the right amount of shea butter so it can withstand the weather. It has cica exosomes, ceramides, niacinamide, and peptides, and can stand toe to toe against it and compete with every international brand. This is the time for us to set an impression and build a community of folks who appreciate nuances, because that market does exist in India. You’re seeing stationery brands selling Bento Jots for ₹10,000, I see people who can’t even run a kilometre wearing a Whoop, which is an expensive product by Indian standards because it works on a subscription model. The market is there.”

Why he killed one of his first products: “I stopped the scalp serum because I was competing with people who claimed your hair would grow back in 14 days if you used their oil. Even though our scalp serum did well, I realised that to market it more extensively, I’d also have to make inflated claims. I would much rather not sell that product than sell something in a manner that’s not genuine.”

The unexpected hit: “We were recently stocked at the One Amazing Thing pop-up by Brown Paper Bag, and someone picked up six of our soap bars together. And I was like, are you kidding? Because each soap is priced at ₹750 and paying that for a 100 gram bar of soap is unheard of, but the fragrance and packaging were good enough for people to want to buy it. It proved that people get what we’re doing.”

No PR boxes, please: “I don’t intend to spend money on influencers. I do feel it has its merits, but unless the influencer is genuinely invested in the brand, you’ll never get the best out of them. Personally, I think it’s a bubble, because everyone’s getting to a good following very fast and it’s not a very curated following. You’ll send the box to 15 people, they’ll tag the brand and PR agency saying ‘thank you’ and forget about the product. I don’t think that helps us in any way. And I know how much influencers charge because I’m managing it for P&G as a consultant. It’s insane money and I think we would rather spend it on being a part of different events and experiential settings.”

His own skincare routine: “It’s only a cleanser, moisturiser, and sunscreen, but I do it religiously. I have a few brands I like—Forest Essentials, Laneige. I don’t move out of that because I have very sensitive skin. One really underrated brand I love that flies under the radar is Plum. Their manufacturers are probably one of the best in India. It is massy and maybe not very flaunt-worthy, but it’s something that works without a second thought. I am a very big advocate of what they’re building.”

His passion lies in fragrance: “I’m a sucker for clean, green, summery fragrances. I rotate fragrances daily. I recently picked up Bleu de Chanel because I’d never used it and was curious. And I got LV’s Ombre Nomade and Tobacco Vanille from Tom Ford. I’ve gone through Calvin Klein’s entire range because I love what they’ve done with One. But Le Labo Santal 33 is my absolute favourite.”

What’s next for the brand: “We’ve finally launched our website with the hand cream and a gift box. We’re working on fragrances as well. That’ll launch in December or January, hopefully. So far, we’ve just been testing the waters but now is where Qaafi really starts.”

Where to find Qaafi: “We’re available in Greenr stores throughout India, Yellow House Parra in Goa, InStore in Ahmedabad, Amethyst in Chennai, and Pepper House in Kochi, and we’re soon going to be available at concept stores in Jaipur as well. Or just go to our website, projectqaafi.com.”

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