The heart motif has quietly slipped back into fashion vocabulary. This time around, though, it’s less sentimental trinket, more sculptural statement. What was once a charm dangling off your childhood bracelet has now been re-engineered into something with presence: inflated, rounded, and more tactile than before.
The puffiness is the point, and it ties neatly with the bubble jewellery wave that’s been building over the last couple of years: domed rings, chunky bracelets, balloon-like initial pendants. Saint Laurent got there early when it released a necklace in 2022—a chubby silver heart on a black cord that promptly sold out. The puffy heart pendant in its current fine jewellery offering is much daintier but also has a waitlist. If you’re looking for something more impactful, Alaïa’s Le Cœur Bombe earrings have a mirror finish that lends them a slightly industrial edge while keeping it sleek. Designer Roxanne Assoulin, known for her playful jewellery, has made puffy hearts her signature: colourful, stackable, and unapologetically fun. The silhouettes available to shop right now feel fresh rather than nostalgic. Think chunky chain-link bracelets and necklaces, ear studs, and even bag charms. It’s not about love notes and teenage crushes anymore; it’s about form, texture, and a bit of attitude.
And despite being coded as one of fashion’s most feminine shapes, the new puffy heart works surprisingly well in androgynous wardrobes. Against clean lines, muted palettes, and tailored silhouettes, it adds a dash of playfulness without undermining the minimalism. On runways and Instagram feeds, you’ll spot these hearts layered with heavier chains, stacked with signet rings, or worn solo against bare skin.
Whether it’s a vintage-inspired pendant from a heritage house or a minimalist take from an independent designer, the puffy heart works because it doesn’t try too hard. It’s charming without being overly cute and looks just as good peeking from under a crisp shirt collar as it does over a jumper.
