Sanjay Garg is uneasy when Raw Mango is categorised as fashion. To him, the brand is about textile, culture, anthropology—about bigger ideas of evolving tastes. It’s been 15 years since he started his investigations with handloom, and Garg, who was once an outsider to the fashion industry, continues to question what defines style, or who decides that one colour is superior to another.
A graduate of the Indian Institute of Crafts and Design in Jaipur and NIFT, Delhi, Garg sold saris at New Delhi’s Dilli Haat and Dastkar until, the story goes, he was noticed by Jaya Jaitly and the pair bonded over the importance of a vision rooted in tradition. Anita Lal, founder of GoodEarth, was the first to stock Raw Mango at her tony lifestyle store where Garg’s vividly coloured handloom weaves quickly, despite his own reservations about the categorisation, catapulted his brand to the frontlines of Indian fashion. “My teacher [at NIFT] once told me that parrot green is a gawaaru [unsophisticated] colour and that somehow stuck. Who gets to declare that a shade of a sweet pink, orange, or lime is a fashion colour or not?” he recalls. And sure enough, when you walk into his whitewashed boutiques, a perverse neon-green, floral-printed kurta with red piping in an unassuming straight cut sits next to the finest brocade that lights up in the dark. “I think that the whole bindaas-ness that this use of colour goes with has come from my roots in Rajasthan. We are unapologetically questioning the [idea of] sophistication,” he says of his joyful moodboard.