The Diwali Handbook21 Oct 20244 MIN

Old money or Bollywood maximalism—what’s your Diwali vibe?

From chikankari to zardozi, choose the craft that’s your MVP of the season

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Anjul Bhandari blouse, jacket, and pants set; Aurus choker

Photographs by Sarang Gupta. Styled by Naheed Driver

We’re not here to judge, but if you’re considering head-to-toe sequins for the festival of lights—well, so is everyone else. Might we suggest another way to stand out? Perhaps an outfit steeped in traditional craft that leaves people wondering: is it a family heirloom? Fresh off the runway? Bespoke? You can bet that as they try to decode your look, they’ll be discreetly taking notes for their next party.

Every discerning fashion lover has a mental map of designers to consult for specific crafts. Depending on their mood or the impression you want to make, you can make each one work for you in unique ways. If you’re still curating your looks for the season, here are the essentials that should definitely make the cut.

If your taash bets are as sharp as your manicure, choose Sangeeta Kilachand’s marodi 

Seven years ago, Kilachand, a long-time collector of old textiles and embroideries, took on the personal responsibility of reviving marodi embroidery, a needlework technique that results in opulent, 3D embellishments. She fostered a community of kaarigars who specialise in the intricate threadwork and tasked them with updating traditional motifs and silhouettes from Kutch for a modern audience. Ornate and regal, these pieces are crafted for women who are unafraid to stand out—whether at the Diwali aarti or around the cards table.

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Sangeeta Kilachand kaftan; Vasundhra Raj necklace

If Bibbojaan from Heeramandi is on your permanent mood board, choose Mimamsaa’s handwoven crushed tissue silk

A crumpled piece of brocade fabric at a weaver’s studio in Varanasi inspired Ankita Singh to envision various forms of tissue silk—including crushed tissue, the label’s star fabric. The gauzy, handwoven textiles are turned into kurtas, pyjamas, and saris inspired by the fashions of Uttar Pradesh’s smaller royal courts from the early 1900s. They’re perfect for that regal vibe, because queens don’t need to announce themselves to be noticed; they just are.

If your wardrobe is old-money coded, choose Anjul Bhandari’s chikankari

The beauty of chikankari embroidery lies in its resemblance to handwriting—imperfect, idiosyncratic. Bhandari’s heavily embroidered pieces, often embellished with Swarovski crystals and beads, spotlight the meticulous skill of Lucknowi artisans. From pastel shararas to fluid lehengas, her pieces whisper understated elegance, attracting a loyal following of those who appreciate subtlety. If you know, you know.

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Anjul Bhandari blouse, jacket, and pants set; Aurus choker; Amrapali necklace

If you’ve been practising all the steps to Tauba Tauba, choose Anushka Khanna’s bandhani

Khanna’s bandhani outfits spring from memories of her mother draping her favourite ochre bandhani sari, but are infused with cheery, fluorescent colours and crafted into modern silhouettes, providing a fresh take on this timeless craft. Much like the unpredictable nature of bandhani, where each print evolves uniquely, these pieces cater to the quirky, free-spirited wearer.

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Anushka Khanna crop blouse, kurta and pants; Aurus choker; Anu Merton ring

If you’ve got a professional make-up artist on speed dial, choose Archana Jaju’s kalamkari

From start to finish, the ancient process of kalamkari, or ‘pen art’, involves 23 meticulous steps. While Jaju’s renditions of hand-painted natural motifs modernise the craft, she remains committed to its painstaking techniques and exclusively uses natural dyes made from bark, leaves, flowers, and roots. As a result, no two pieces are ever identical.

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Archana Jaju lehenga; Aurus earrings; Anu Merton bangles

If your activism is shopping, choose Delhi Vintage Co’s zardozi

If you love rummaging through piles and piles of fabrics in old bazaars, have a stash of oxidised jewellery, and can’t stand the idea of someone else wearing the same piece as you, this brand is your answer. Founder Manish Chabra re-imagines vintage pieces from his personal collection by cutting them up into modern silhouettes and embellishing them with his favourite craft—zardozi. The metallic threads really bring alive the darker undertones of his garments (often a result of dyeing the fabric using real coffee or tea), resulting in an aesthetic that feels at once nostalgic and edgy.

Modelled by Manya Mitra from Feat. Artists, Hair and make-up by Tshering Lama from Feat. Artists, carpet courtesy Jaipur Rugs