25 places to eat, drink and stay in South Goa this monsoon

It’s a common belief that Goa goes off-duty in the monsoons—a belief that has been debunked repeatedly in the last few years. For proof there are the many monsoon specials and takeovers happening across the state, the crowds in tourist points and, surprisingly, even the beaches, and monsoon festivals like São João and Chikhal Kalo.

There’s no off switch for the hospitality industry. Even if the beach shacks are closed, there is enough and more to do in South Goa. A seafood-forward beachside restaurant. A vegetarian fried ‘chicken’ burger. Wood-fired pizzas. Feni cocktails. A bio-diverse farm. A riverside mud house. Goa’s monsoon menu is diverse, fun, and unexpected.

FOOD

Beno, Benaulim

This all-day pet-friendly neighbourhood cafe and bar has slowly turned into a beloved brunch spot. In their words, Beno began with a simple belief: “breakfast deserved better”. The “better” translates to generous plates, the freedom to order a cocktail before noon—they have quite the gin collection (definitely try the Really Good Gin Cocktail with cold brew seaweed)—and expansive brunch offerings that span burgers, pasta, smoothie bowls, croissants, and more. This monsoon, look out for a new food and drinks menu: sourdough toasts, smoked pastrami, salads and grilled seabass, and breakfast martini with orange marmalade and toast!

Mon Petit Frère, Colva

Breakfast all-day could well be the Mon Petit Frère slogan. The small outdoor cafe run by Danny and Raymond Rodrigues has evolved over time, from serving just breakfast and sandwiches to offering more global fare and a bar menu. It is no-frills, no-fuss, and wholesome food (think fried chicken burgers, chicken croquettes, and beef steak, among others) and highly sippable drinks, eaten surrounded by greenery. If lucky, your meal companion could be one of the many dogs on the property

Cantine Indienne, Palolem

Satish Sridhar and Manon Gingold’s plant-based space is a pandemic child. Sridhar is a chef and co-founder of OG Mushrooms, and his ingredient of choice shows up in Cantine’s menu in many forms, including a smashing fried ‘chicken’. There’s a lot of Tanjore food on the menu (stir-fried vegetables, banana stem kootu, sambar, and rasam), reflected in their thali for the day. The menu is small and changes daily; check their notice board for specials. The all-day space is quite popular for its Thursday jam nights.

Cavatina by Avinash Martins, Benaulim

Avinash Martins has slowly become Goa’s most popular homegrown chef, now running three spaces (including a recent one in Bengaluru). Cavatina is where he started his journey. Initially, it served global/Mediterranean fare before he made the pivot to more local cuisine after the Covid-19 pandemic. Cavatina does ‘reimagined Goan food’, familiar dishes tweaked to make them modern—tambdi bhaji spanakopita, a chicken or jackfruit cafreal potato rosti ‘nest’, crab xec xec bisque. Each dish comes with a story about provenance, detailing the ingredients and the people behind it. A meal with a history lesson.

Due Amici Pizzeria Ristorante, Utorda

Chef Davide Cananzi is best known in Goa for his pizzas, which are available at Due Amici (a rebrand of Davide’s Pizzeria done in 2025). The chef’s specialty is home-style Italian food served the traditional way—al dente pasta and no ketchup! Try the panuozzi (pizza bread sandwich), manzo tonnato (beef with tuna, capers, and mayo), and the grilled lobster. While the OG space is in Siolim, Due Amici Pizzeria Ristorante is the 25-cover space within Kenilworth Resort & Spa.

Bonita, Arossim

Chef Sanchit Behl brings his mastery of European techniques and Indian flavours to the table at Bonita, which is part of Heritage Village Resort & Spa. An underrated restaurant from 2014—it doesn’t make top lists or awards—it still consistently dishes out great food. Expectedly, there’s a heavy leaning towards European food, and the menu spans everything: salads and barbecues to burgers and pizzas. Standout dishes are prawn and coconut bisque, salted soft-shell crab, Korean pork ribs, and beef short rib. Clean flavours, wholesome plates, and just a little flair with presentation make it memorable. The restaurant also curates live music nights.

The Southern Deck, Benaulim

The beach bar and bistro on Benaulim beach is popular for its relaxed vibe and live music. There’s a private lounge area, a wooden dance floor, and a top deck with AC and beach-front seating. The food offers an interesting take on Goan, Indian, and global fare with luscious plates of Alaskan king crab claw, stuffed crab with white wine and truffle oil, and chilli garlic tongue. Go for the seafood dishes, tiki cocktails, and a really long Long Island Iced Tea.

Goodfellas, Benaulim

Davide Stampini, Fernando Colledanchise, and Nicholas Compagnone are the good fellas behind this popular Italian space. Everything on the menu, from breads to kombucha, is made fresh and in-house. Look for classic Italian food, including thin-crust and wood-fired pizzas, and dishes like crudo e burrata pizza, tagliatelle al ragù, and lasagna al ragu. There’s a cosy indoor bar serving good wine and cocktails like Amalfi Burst (vodka and Limoncello) and espresso martini, and outdoor seating in the garden. They host live music nights and the occasional flea market. Stampini and Compagnone also run Slow Dough in Sernabatim, serving classic Pala Romana pizzas and focaccia sandwiches.

BARS

Feli Tavern, Benaulim

Feli Tavern (‘feli’ means ‘good fortune’) opened in June 2022 with the idea of carrying the warmth and charm of old Goan taverns to a more contemporary setting. It’s a neighbourhood spot that celebrates Goa through local ingredients and dishes like Feli fried chicken, Goan prawn rissois, and seasonal breadfruit chips, and spirits (especially cashew feni). Go for ever-evolving feni cocktails, craft beer on tap, pub grub, and a chill vibe.

MOFO, location undisclosed

This bar’s claim to fame is that its address remains a secret (it isn’t online). To find the spot, slide into their Instagram DMs and they might share a location. The speakeasy has one of the best vibes for a bar in Goa, aided by a crowd of repeat customers and a slew of community-first events, including their famous Cashew Cartel, which spotlights urrak and feni during cashew feni season. The food, too, is classic bar food inspired from across the world, with some Indian bites.

Bar SoGo, Varca

At the edge of a working paddy field in Varca, Bar SoGo is a beautiful, elegant pub. The drinks are based on the different trade routes that shaped Goa. For example, Caravel Shadow (gin or cognac with plum, citrus, and orange) reflects the quiet moment as ships settle into the harbour at dusk, while Crimson Passage (vodka, cherry tomato, lime, and prosecco vinegar) echoes the laterite forts that once guarded the coastline. There’s a robust zero-proof selection too. The food is global but with a Goan touch and includes something for everyone, from sandos to steaks; the menu shifts with the season. It’s a social space too, hosting guest shifts, brand collaborations, kitchen pop-ups, and bartending masterclasses.

Bobby’s Bar, Agonda

A no-fuss cocktail bar that certainly doesn’t care about vibe or aesthetics. Bobby’s is an actual neighbourhood bar, with dim lights, crowded seating, and walls covered with scribbles. At any given moment, you are jostling against someone with your drinks, and the crowd often spills over on the street. There’s no food here, just straight alcohol and some cocktails—nothing dazzling but enough to start or end a good night.

The Tinto Community Bar, Majorda

It’s a bar that also serves you a Goan fish thali. Tinto opened last year, another space wanting to honour Goa’s laid-back tavern and neighbourhood bar culture. Tinto is a community space doing great food and creative cocktails, with a coveted view of the paddy fields that every real estate agent salivates for. Go in the afternoons for a serene view and wholesome thalis. The menu celebrates authentic Goan bar favourites alongside inventive south Indian influences—banana-wrapped fish, curry patta beef, tongue roast, Betul fish steak and dodol mousse—while the bar celebrates local ingredients while reimagining Goan flavours—coconut-forward Lychee Clarified, the feni-based Passionata, and the Goa Ah-Voi-S with coconut, jaggery, tamarind, and peru.

STAY

Silva Heritage, Benaulim

A Goan villa containing 350 years of history within its walls was restored to its current grand scale by Smita Diniz Costa e Antao and Sherwin Antao in 2019. The 15-room villa has an expansive garden (often rented out for weddings and events), a central courtyard, and a wide verandah. Rooms are named after Goan Catholic surnames and feature oyster-shell windows, hand-painted tiles, and ornate four-poster beds. The kitchen on site, Mesa Dulcina, serves fabulous Goan-Portuguese dishes. Silva conducts many activities and events, like fado nights, cooking classes, and a feni tasting. Price: Starts at ₹7,500 approx

Dudhsagar Plantation, Mollem

The homestay by Ajit and Doris Malkarnekar started as an experiment in circular living. Today, it is a bio-diverse farm with five cottages, a natural-water pool, and a garden lush with birds, butterflies, fruit trees, and animals. The kitchen dishes out homestyle Goan food. An on-site feni distillery offers a peek into the making of cashew feni and a tasting session. During cashew season, they host Finding Feni, a farm-to-bottle experience; they have their own brand, Ouro. Activities on site include nature trails, yoga workshops, a bioluminescence night walk (in the monsoons), and birdwatching. Price: Starts at ₹6,500 approx

Casa Jaali, Patnem

It is quite the thrill to be sitting in the balcony of a room at Casa Jaali and watching the rain fall. The property sits smack dab on a rocky peninsula overlooking Patnem Bay and has 10 sea-facing rooms, huts, and a house, with a private garden. The in-house restaurant, Jaali Kitchen, is a high bamboo-and-metal-roofed space looking out onto the sea and serving up inspired Indian and global dishes and cocktails (they are known for their margaritas). A wooden pathway leads to the beach. Casa Jaali also hosts private events and musical nights. Ask and they will organise dolphin-viewing boat rides and excursions to nearby beaches and sites of interest, like Tanshikar Spice Farm or Galgibaga beach. The space is a short drive/walk from Cantine Indienne. Price: Starts at ₹5,600 approx

Mud Dauber, Sadolxem

A sea of green welcomes you at Mud Daber deep in South Goa. The homestay, consisting of a bungalow and a cottage, occupies space on a hillock overlooking the Talpona river. Both rooms are built with mud, as are the beds and seating areas within. Despite the old-school building material, the rooms have AC, modern fittings, and Wi-Fi. The place is pet-friendly, and meals can be booked for an additional cost. A pottery studio on site conducts pottery residencies. There are a few homes surrounding the property, and a kayaking facility nearby. Price: Starts at ₹1,950 a night (minimum of two nights)

Casa Galgibaga, Galgibaga

The Cardoz family’s 70-year-old home is now a heritage stay just a short walk from Galgibaga beach. The main villa is an expansive two-bedroom space with a well-equipped kitchen, dining area, and a wide balcony ideal for morning breakfasts. The garden area has hammocks and a BBQ grill. Of note are the bathrooms with mosaic tiles featuring images of Olive Ridley turtles (the beach is a nesting site). The property also includes two beach cottages. Price: Starts at ₹5,000 approx

Heritage Village Resort & Spa, Arossim

The boutique resort is a great family-friendly space that sits two minutes from Arossim beach. Rooms here encircle a central area that contains a pool, a games room, and a lawn. The colourful Goan-Portuguese-style rooms come with balconies that overlook the gardens or the pool. Boasting three dining spaces, two bars (including a poolside one), and an in-house store selling designerwear, shoes, bags, and curios from Goan designers and artists, there’s enough and more to do here. On request, they can organise birdwatching trips, pottery classes, market visits, and more. Price: Starts at ₹7,499 approx

Beleza by the Beach, Colva

The luxury beach resort sits next to paddy fields close to Colva beach. The property has 94 rooms, suites, and private plunge-pool villas. There’s a field-side Paddy Bar, a restaurant called Nazaré that serves a variety of cuisines, a games pavilion, curio shop, and a spa. The concierge also organises activities like birdwatching and cooking classes. Price: Starts at ₹6,000 approx

Amaraanth, Fatrade

Built on the remnants of an old Goan home, Amaraanth is a 12-room boutique stay set amongst an expansive garden area, herb garden, and peppered with art installations. There’s a pool overlooking the garden, a pebbled reflexology pathway, a gym, and an open deck for yoga. The hotel has its own restaurant that serves cuisine-agnostic meals, helmed by chef Ritu Dalmia, while the bar space has innovative drinks curated by Pankaj Balachandran, co-founder of Boilermaker Goa. A standout is the wellness experiences by The HVN, a London-based wellness clinic, who have installed a Hydro Bed, aka a soothingly warm water mattress, on which all your treatments take place. Fatrade beach is a short walk away. Price: Starts at ₹21,000 approx

Figueiredo House, Loutolim

One of Goa’s oldest houses (built in 1590), Figueiredo House allows you the chance to experience a piece of history. There are five rooms in this heritage villa, which are named after the influential ladies of the family and come with four-poster beds as well as Wi-Fi and breakfast. Note: ask and splurge on a meal, which is a Goan-Portuguese feast. While there, you can also visit the Figueiredo Museum—some rooms of the house with preserved hand-carved rosewood furniture, crystal chandeliers, Italian and French ceramic tiles, and Chinese porcelain for a taste of life in old Goa. Price: Starts at ₹5,000 approx

Bhakti Kutir, Palolem

The eco retreat is set in a two-acre coconut grove near Palolem beach. There are 12 standalone eco huts and five double-storey cabanas made using bamboo, jute, rice straw, and reclaimed wood. They even have shared dorms and a community kitchen. The Bhakti Restaurant does seasonal vegetarian dishes, house-baked breads, and small-batch ferments; there are vegan and gluten-free options, too. Since the beach might not be an option this season, why not opt for the daily yoga classes or roll up to the Ayurveda centre for a morning of traditional therapies. Price: Starts at ₹2,000 approx

Khaama Kethna Ecovillage, Agonda

This sustainable village spread across 12 acres contains eco cottages and treehouses as well as three yoga shalas spread out among a plant nursery, vegetable and herb gardens, and fruit trees. Each room comes with a private garden terrace and open-air washroom facilities and meditation sessions and set meals need to be booked in advance. Head here if you’re looking for some place quiet where you can embrace stillness and nature. Price: Starts at ₹1,600 approx

Cabo Serai, Cabo De Rama

The resort, a stone’s throw from the Cabo De Rama beach, is spread across 15 acres of lush forested land. There are luxury cottages and luxury tents offering great views, two yoga spaces, farm-to-table dining (including sattvic and vegan options), and a pool. Wellness activities include yoga classes and Ayurvedic massages. Guests can experience birdwatching, fishing, sightseeing activities, and easy access to the beach. Price: Starts at ₹10,000 approx