Jaguars, macaws, and mezcal: Azulian House leans into its wild side

Let’s start by establishing that the Leela Palace in Bengaluru is not like other hotels; it has undeniably more clout. Beyond the sprawling gardens and suites, it’s home to the city’s₹₹₹ only Sabyasachi store as well as ZLB23, the speakeasy that has now become a mainstay on Asia’s 50 Best Bars list.

So, when I learned that in May, Azulian House, a botanical, Latin American-inspired dining destination, arrived at the Leela, I knew it’s in great company but also has big boots to fill. That’s probably why the 75-seater agave bar and restaurant welcomes you with a splash of colour.

It interrupts the hotel’s classic, soft-pink marble hallways with distinctive sage-cream arches. Walk a little closer and you see the space’s facade wear its links to botany loud and proud. Victorian-style frames holding painted illustrations of flowers and stems adorn the walls.

When I finally step into Azulian House for lunch, it’s nothing short of a luxe forest escape. The sage green lingers inside, only now it’s disrupted by a double-edged wooden trellis with mirrors. The prime spot where you would expect a chandelier holds lush creepers tumbling down from the high ceiling.

Every inch forward reveals more detail: on your left an eight-foot-long rose tapestry carries handwoven jaguars, serpents, and monkeys in action. Even the blush pink seats hold hints of embroidered fauna. Yet the real design highlight sits behind the floor-to-ceiling windows. Picture two handcrafted mosaic tables that stretch across 12 feet, painting a scene of the Amazon forest. “We wanted the table to make a statement,” says Shruti Jaipuria, the creative director of interior architecture firm Maia Design Studio, who has also designed ZLB, Biergarten, and LuckyChan in Bengaluru. “This was handmade using natural stone in Jaipur and took four months from concept to execution.”

Well, one look and you understand the hours put in. The intricate table design portrays a jaguar mid-hunt, toucans and macaws perched on palm trees, and hibiscus in bloom as a parrot flies over. The animals are anchored by a larger-than-life monstera plant. My favourite part is how glimpses of the mosaic extend outward and come to life in the restaurant. Perched on the table’s side you see a magnanimous 20-year-old monstera sourced from Kerala competing with the stone iteration.

That’s not all. Look up at the 25-foot-tall ceiling above the tables to spot hand-painted jaguars. “In Latin American culture and history, jaguars play a very important role,” says Jaipuria. “We wanted every experience of Azulian House to be sensorial and concept-driven.” Even the grain-heavy omakase bar is punctuated by hand-beaten brass plates featuring palm trees native to the region.

In the garden outside, large cane loungers and sofas are decked with plush fauna-covered cushions. Surrounded by trees and the sounds of a gushing waterfall, it’s hard to remember that in reality we’re only a walk away from Indiranagar’s busiest streets. The dissociation is heightened as every detail in the restaurant roots you in Latin American and botanist influences, taking you a step further from reality.

At our table, we’re welcomed with a shot of chicha, a corn-based fermented drink traditional to South America. The team at Azulian House reimagined this with fermented basmati rice, jaggery, and tangy pineapple peels. It tastes just as you would imagine: starchy and sour with a hint of spice. The drinks menu is equally rich with tales. Each cocktail recognises the work that botanists have done across India. At a time when we’re all keen on farm-to-table ingredients, the Leela bar goes one step further, crediting the experts who created this flora and vegetation.

The Leading Lady is inspired by Dr Janaki Ammal, one of India’s first female botanists, who worked extensively with sugarcane. The rum and port wine drink includes its Latin American counterpart, maple. Roselle & Rain, a floral Highball, is closer to Bengaluru. It is in memory of German botanist Gustav Krumbiegel, who is responsible for the lush gardens of Lalbagh and Cubbon Park. “The Wild Preserve with mezcal and gooseberry is an ode to Dr R Ganesan’s work conserving amla and the Soliga community,” shares Kripal Singh Goni, the head mixologist.

We instantly order the drink, partly for the smoky concoction but mostly because we’re suckers for stories. Served with a slice of sponge cake, the dark and sour flavour mixes well with the saccharine. The Flame of Tucson, named after agave expert Scott Calhoun’s hometown, is for the Picante-obsessed. It distils the acidity of lacto-fermented tomato and jalapeño with sharp tequila.

For cynics, I must point out that the botany infusion wasn’t just lip service on the menu. The restaurant holds a mini shrine carrying framed photos of all the botanists who have inspired the flavours alongside a library of books to delve into. “We wanted to imagine a visual story through the lens of a well-travelled botanist and what his home could be, with his love for nature, gardens and South America on display through the books and objects he would collect,” explains Jaipuria.

Maybe it’s the Gen Z in me, but the zero-proof cocktails deserve a special mention here. The Champola de Tamarindo tasted like elevated imli candy, mixing tamarind with fragrant lime leaves. The Swiss Lemonade magically combines a staid drink with clarified condensed milk, creating a rich, sweet and sour elixir. If I could get seconds and thirds, you bet this would be the order.

For nibbles, Naval Kukreti, the executive assistant manager of food and bevs at Leela, insists we try the house-made guacamole with plantain chips. I can’t lie; the familiar flavours placed in context of the region-first interiors instantly transport you to the sticky, salty air of Mexico.

We also get the tempura-fried baby lobster skewers served with pineapple salsa and habanero chilli. The verdict: delicious, crackling and hot enough to have you reaching out for a sip of that drink. The camotes rellenos (stuffed sweet potatoes) with caramelised onion, pistachio crumble, and huancaina sauce are a delicious, bite-sized reminder that we are in fact, still in the restaurant of a bougie hotel.

“We also have a large section of grills that use a special anti-culture marination,” Kukreti says. “Black beer, red wine vinegar, some soy, ginger, and garlic create a rich flavour served with rocoto chimichurri and salsa verde.” From this section we pick the cauli steak with goat cheese and walnut crumble. Despite how tiny the serving looks on the plate, the creamy, crumbly flavour is decadent enough to soak up the alcohol you’re sipping.

While most of the experience was 10/10, if I could change one thing it would be the tres leches rice pudding on the dessert menu. Seeing how expertly the team blends flavours, we were very excited for this one but it was a little too bland and porridge-like for my taste. Maybe we should have bet on the cassava cake instead.

Before we get up from our table to exit the dreamy Latin American forest-scape, I take a big swig of my Wild Preserve cocktail, then wipe my palate with the zero-proof tamarind tincture for the road. And wow. If this is what day drinking feels and, more importantly, looks like, sign me up.

Address: The Leela Palace, 23, HAL Old Airport Rd, HAL 2nd Stage, Kodihalli, Bengaluru

Timings: 11 am to 11 pm

Reservations: + 91 9071718755

Cost for two: 7,000 + taxes