Most Wednesday mornings, you’ll find me with The Nod’s fashion team. Scheduled as a quick meeting, our catch-ups rarely stay crisp, as we meander into hotly contested debates on the month/week/year’s big sartorial hits and misses.
A couple of weeks ago, we were wrapping up our call, when Chloe Chou, fashion writer and resident expert on all things new and cool, piped up, “Co-ord sets are dead. That’s the story.”
Ah Gen Z! Let this millennial tell you why, the twin set (doesn’t that sound a lot more appealing?), which became so popular during Covid, has a permanent place in our wardrobes and lives. In July this year, Women’s Wear Daily proclaimed, “There’s nothing easier than throwing on an unfussy, coordinated outfit, which is why matching sets are currently a leading trend on the streets and in stores.” Most retail sites, including Zara and multi-brand platforms like Mytheresa and Shopbop, have separate pull downs and sections for this trend, and in the past few weeks, scrolling through Instagram, I’ve seen everyone from Sara Foster (whose label, Favourite Daughter, has some tailored and knit sets that I’m adding to cart) to Summiya Patni Shah of House of Misu, wearing (or rather, rewearing) their sets, all with an elevated twist.
“They are actually a classic,” says Priyanka Kapadia, stylist to celebrities such as Alia Bhatt, Anushka Sharma, and Ananya Panday. “The versions I’m loving are more tailored; a waistcoat with trousers, in pinstripes and suiting fabrics. Women love them and they’re easy outfits to put together, because let’s be honest, we’re all busy, so sometimes thinking about our clothes is not really an option.”
Dhruv Kapoor fall/winter 2024/25
That’s not to say that this is an excuse for lazy dressing. The twin sets we are talking about here are elevated. Gone are the days of styles that could be mistaken for your pyjamas, these new looks are sophisticated, put-together, and mindful. They span the gamut: printed, monotone, in knits, craft coded, and available in more fluid fabrics.
“I’ve been long hearing that co-ord sets are out, especially in rooms with fashion people who are sick of them,” laughs Aria Parikh of multi-brand designer boutique, Ensemble. “But anytime I go to a social event, at least 25 per cent of the room is wearing them, including sometimes me!” As a merchandiser, Parikh believes there is room for matching sets, but in a way that’s more indicative of personal style. “Part of the magic of putting together an outfit every morning is to reflect who you are. And even in a co-ord set, you can bring so much of your personality in through accessories, hair. There’s so much potential there.”
Favourite Daughter
And if women want them, and are wearing and rewearing them, it’s clear that this style is now nestled quite firmly in sartorial mindsets (sorry, dear Chloe!). Designers too are redefining what a matching set looks like. Take Dhruv Kapoor, whose shirt and trouser combos detailed with ties, sequins, and prints are so popular among mums, that I teasingly tell him that he’s managed to create the kiddie birthday party uniform (full disclosure: for my son’s fourth birthday, I opted for a printed version myself). He believes any well-coordinated look falls under this category. “I don’t feel they will ever completely exit, but adopt new formats. A pantsuit, a skirt suit, or even a total denim look—all are more elevated and a growing segment for us, and they have higher repeat value. My team and I consistently aim to educate our audience to rewear the product—giving it a new life simply through alternative pairing options.”
That’s something Mumbai-based designer Anushka Khanna also emphasises. This August, at The Wedding Collective, I wore a printed blue twin set from the label (full disclosure: the designer is my sister). I layered it with a similar printed waistcoat, also from her, and contrasted the monotone with a burgundy patent top handle. It was a look that took me through a busy day, from meeting designers and guests to dinner and drinks with key opinion leaders, quite seamlessly.
“I have to admit, even I was surprised by the number of orders we got on that entire look,” says Khanna. “All our pieces are separates that can be styled together in different ways, and this worked, also going to show that just like with any other wardrobe classic, the twin set has staying power, but the client is still looking for innovative styling and a fresh approach.” In this case, the twin set actually became a three piece. But that’s a story for next season.
