If you scrolled through Instagram last week, you might have seen some dramatic headlines and proclamations, like “EU bans gel nails” or “Gel nails linked to infertility”, everywhere. And if you’re anything like me—a mani obsessive who religiously gets a gel refill every three weeks—the news must have felt like a small personal earthquake. I, for one, found myself asking: Is it over for gel nails?
First, some clarity. The European Commission hasn’t banned gel nails outright—it specifically blacklisted trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), a common ingredient found in gel nail polish, after classifying it as “carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction”. TPO is a photoinitiator used in many UV-cured gel nail products. Think of it as the chemical magician in your manicure: when zapped under UV light, it transforms gloopy gel or wet paint into a hard, glossy shield that sticks around for weeks.
The classification may sound terrifying, but here’s the catch: the decision comes after studies on animals (specifically rats) showed that ingesting large amounts of TPO could impact fertility. There isn’t any conclusive research yet on how much, if any, of the chemical is absorbed through your nails during a manicure and how harmful it actually is to humans. But the EU is known for its better-safe-than-sorry approach to regulations, often acting on early data to safeguard public health. While the move is more precautionary, it still makes you rethink what you’re putting on your nails.
Here in India, though, it’s business as usual. Most salons continue to offer the gels you know and love, likely still containing TPO, because there’s no such regulation locally. So, for the time being, it comes down to personal choice whether you continue to use gels with or without the ingredient.
Of course, not all gels are created equal (surprise, surprise). While most formulations still contain TPO, safer alternatives already exist, like OPI’s GelColor range and Bio Sculpture, which launched in India in late 2024. Others are rushing to reformulate.
In Mumbai, luxury salon The White Door has already made the switch. “We used the pandemic pause to rethink what kind of brands we truly wanted to be associated with,” says nail technician Yaimi Mungleng. “We cleared out our old stock and realised we didn’t want to settle for the gels already available locally and brought in Bio Sculpture. Of course, that meant educating clients about why it’s worth choosing a gel that wouldn’t damage their nails in the long run.”
The difference goes beyond ingredients. Bio Sculpture’s application and removal process is gentler; their base gels are tailored by nail type, and the polish slips off after a soak with gel remover and foil wrap, no aggressive filing needed. For anyone who’s nursed brittle, over-buffed nails, that’s a game-changer. “The cost is slightly higher than other brands, but we’re absorbing that difference to focus on raising awareness around nail health,” adds Mungleng.
“All Bio Sculpture products are 10-free, which means they’re formulated without a range of potentially harmful ingredients,” confirms the brand’s educator Sousha Lanah. “Our gels are completely TPO-free, and the photoinitiator we use is fully EC-compliant and tested for safety.”
That shift mirrors what we’ve seen in skincare and makeup, where “clean beauty” stopped being a niche buzzword and started reshaping the industry. Nail care seems to be on the same track. That doesn’t mean every product with a scary-sounding chemical is dangerous, but consumers want reassurance that long-term health isn’t an afterthought. As Lanah puts it, “There’s been a global shift toward beauty products that not only deliver results but also protect long-term health.”
“The recent EU decision will act as a wake-up call for many to reassess and make informed choices,” adds Mungleng, adding that many long-term clients are now paying closer attention to ingredients, investing in care products for home use, and asking more questions about the brands used in their services. “Our focus is on encouraging more of our regular clients to switch to this healthier gel system.”
This basically means that if you love the glossy finish of a gel manicure but don’t want to think twice about what’s inside the bottle, a safer option is probably already waiting for you at your local salon—or soon will be.
So, is your gel manicure dangerous—or in danger? Hardly. What’s happening is subtler: a behind-the-scenes chemistry shift, ingredient by ingredient, as brands reformulate to meet global standards. In a year or two, it’s likely you won’t see TPO anywhere, including India. Your finish will still be glossy, your regrowth line will still haunt you at week three, and you’ll still text your manicurist in desperation for an appointment. The only difference? Now, you have reason to ask what exactly is in the little bottle being brushed onto your nails.
