Custom nails worth thousands... In this economy?

As of 2024, beauty is nothing if not a commitment. Skinthusiasts have gone well beyond the cleanse, tone, moisturise routine to tape their mouth, strap their chin, wrap their hair in silk and slap on wrinkle patches where space remains. A morning shed this fierce has also inevitably elevated all regular programming, and the most yassified of them all? Those square oval, gel manicured, BIAB finished, cat-eye nails with 3D olives, glitter rhinestones and if you shell out just enough, even gold dust.

Sure, getting your nails done has been in for a decade but the occasion-specific vanity has now evolved into an expensive monthly investment. Yaimi Mungleng, a senior nail tech at The White Door reveals that their nail treatments “often go up to ₹10,000, especially if you add a hand treatment to the manicure. Using gems and gold foil adds to the overall cost.” The Mumbai-based luxury salon has several HNI clients around the country who don't hesitate before flying out their nail techs for outfit-specific art during special events—at added expense, of course.

It’s no surprise then that the Indian nail salon market is booming with a revenue of $533 million in 2023 and is expected to reach $1,040.1 million by 2030. While elaborate nails began as a result of post-pandemic revenge spending, rapidly changing social media trends (dirty martini manicure, anyone?) made the appointments a mainstay. These big spends are not restricted to grand money-makers either.

Delhi-based HR manager Paridhi Jalan makes ₹55,000 monthly and gets her gel nails refilled every three weeks. Depending on the intricacy of the nail art involved, her treatment costs anywhere between ₹4,500 and ₹7,000 per visit. “It may seem dramatic, but I see myself more clearly when my nails are fresh, it shows that I put an effort into my appearance,” the 25-year-old shares. “My Hinge dates go infinitely better and even my boss seems kinder.”

Alien as it may sound, this pretty privilege associated with nails is a widely discussed phenom on TikTok. For many, the shade on their fingernails helps them virtue-signal who they are, not just their wealth but also their taste and what their algorithm looks like. Let’s just say if George Bernard Shaw was writing Pygmalion today, the saying would be that people judge you by your painted talons more than your worn-out shoes. After all, Hailey Bieber’s glazed donut nails have inspired think pieces, while in November, sleuths used Megan Fox’s manicure to decode (!) how far along she was in her pregnancy.

In an age where harmless frivolity is often masked as wellness, nails are also seen as a form of self-care. “I’m not a boomer so I won’t say my mani appointments can replace therapy but it’s definitely a supplement to it, I always get my nails done after a good cry-session. I deserve to reward myself then,” confesses Karuna [last name withheld on request], an event designer from Gurgaon who recently spent ₹8,000 on her Christmas-themed nail extensions. Although bartenders are popular for saving secrets, Legally Blonde did not lie when it portrayed nail techs as patient listeners on-demand.

Mungleng calls her regular clients “family”, adding that it’s her job to create a safe space while they vent about their day. Similarly, Mumbai-based Femme Nails’ founder Pari Jain says, “Over the two hours of nail treatment, I’ve heard people talk about their breakup to them finding the love of their life, dating and eventually getting married. The whole process is not just fashion maintenance but also an outlet and a confidence boost for them.”

It then makes sense why despite experiencing severe financial anxiety, young people are willing to spend sizeable chunks of their income on designer nails that typically last for less than a month. As the little treats mentality gains power, nail enthusiasts are justifying their nail spends as quality investments. They take pride in their carefully curated Pinterest boards and share pictures of newly minted manis on their Instagram and Snapchat for a quick dopamine boost. To no one’s surprise, fire emojis and questions like “where did you get that” flood in, only validating all the time and money spent.

Mariam Hakimi, a Bangalore-based independent nail artist, has witnessed a major shift in how much her clients are willing to pay for their upkeep since she began seven years ago. “I’ve seen people double their initial budget to spend ₹6,000 on art. Some girls start setting aside money three months in advance to get customised nails for their birthday,” she explains. “I know that the economy isn’t great because people are talking about their finances and pricing a lot more during appointments this year. But nails are still a priority.”