Minimalism? Never heard the word. If you were at this season’s India Couture Week 2024 then one thing was clear—this was a season of delightful excesses. Siddartha Tytler’s presentation was literally called Caligula’s Feast, referencing the hedonistic Roman emperor, known for his decadent banquets. Roseroom by Isha Jajodia and Rimzim Dadu both referenced a time and place known for its opulence—the former was drawn by the architectural lavishness of Palace of Versailles and the latter by that of Italian Baroque architecture. Dadu, known for her masterful corded textures and skill with fabric manipulation, dialled up the glamour this season with a liberal use of high-shine zardozi embroidery.
All this excess only showcased the craftsmanship that our designers and their ateliers are capable of. Which is what couture is all about; handmade, custom clothing that’s an expression of skill.
Among the 14 shows that took place this week, some veered towards fantasy—and an image that wouldn’t leave me is from the Amit Aggarwal show on Sunday where models walked out looking alternately like winged goddesses of the future or badass villains from a science fiction film. The show was the perfect palette cleanser to a season that is heavily curated for the booming Indian bridal market. As Tarun Tahiliani said at a preview lunch for his collection, “The workmanship we have in this country can blow your mind. What’s bridal, what’s couture, it’s all the same.”
On ground, this exuberance extended to those watching the shows as well, or so it seemed with the well-put-together audiences. Despite the fact that things started only after 8:30pm and that the schedule stretched over the course of the week, each presentation was packed to the gills with an enthusiastic showcase of students, loyal clients, fashion industry folk, internet personalities and others, all clamouring for front row access to what seemed like the hottest (literally, given the weather outside) event on Delhi’s social calendar. Perhaps nothing captures the excitement better than the fact that Tahiliani did his marathon of a show (with over 100 looks) twice in the course of one evening because of the sheer number of people who were left waiting outside the doors, unable to get to their seats. (Reports say that the designer paid his models for the extra time). Finally, to the girl who woke up and chose violence for her seat at Gaurav Gupta, where did you disappear to during the show? Ahead, 10 key fashion moments from this season.
This corset is also a sari blouse
The obsession for cinched waists and boning details continues with an Indian twist.
