In 2024, the hottest treatment in dermatologists’ offices was not a laser or filler but an injectable skin booster made from salmon sperm DNA. Known as PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide, if you must know), the compound has been used for healing wounds for decades and is prized for its ability to heal and plump the skin when injected or paired with micro-needling. If retinol is your personal trainer that pushes cells to work harder and faster, PDRN is like a recovery drink: gentler, nourishing, and all about regeneration.
Now, the ingredient has swum out of the syringe and onto beauty shelves: bottled in pastel ampoules, perched in K-beauty aisles at Sephora and Tira, and starring in skincare hauls across Instagram, Reddit, and TikTok. According to trend tracker Spate, #PDRN is the top-rated ingredient hashtag on TikTok, averaging 115.9k weekly views, with mentions up more than 1,000 per cent year over year across platforms in the US. It’s officially joined the roster of “clinic-to-counter” trends following LED masks, growth factor serums, and at-home dermarollers.
But can a serum actually deliver the same glow as an in-office treatment? Not exactly. “In-clinic PDRN is delivered directly into the dermis, where collagen production happens, so results show up in two to three weeks,” explains Dr Madhuri Agarwal, a Mumbai-based dermatologist and founder of Yavana Aesthetics Clinic. “Topical serums can’t penetrate to that depth, because the skin barrier is not designed to let large molecules like PDRN inside easily—they’re better for maintenance than transformation.” Consistent use over months can offer subtle improvement, but it’s the equivalent of cycling instead of driving: you’ll get to Glow City, but slower.
Still, these new serums have their place. “The regenerative processes don’t stop when you leave the clinic. Topical PDRN helps sustain that activity, so patients often need fewer touch-ups,” says Dr Agarwal. Apart from being a bridge between in-clinic treatments, the format is also a good compromise or a gentler entry point for the needle-averse—many start with serums, then move to in-clinic injectables once they see results, she adds. Even Rejuran, the maker of the world’s most popular PDRN injectables, offers PDRN-infused creams and ampoules.
As with any trendy ingredient, quality matters more than hype. Salmon-derived PDRN has years of research behind it and a molecular structure similar to human DNA. There are also plant-based versions if you’re vegan or weirded out by the salmon association, though they’re newer and less studied. Ginseng-extracted PDRN, for example, shows promise. Products like VT PDRN Essence 100 (ginseng-derived) and Iope’s Bio-PDRN caffeine shot (green-tea-derived) are both bestsellers and favourites on the Asian Beauty subreddit. Dr Agarwal’s checklist: look for concentrations between 0.5 and 2 per cent, buy from reputable brands with transparent ingredient lists and stability testing, and avoid anything suspiciously cheap—real PDRN is pricey to extract.
Worried about skincare clashes? Thankfully, PDRN plays well with retinoids, soothing the purging process it triggers. Innisfree’s skin booster ampoule even combines green-tea-derived PDRN with retinol. Vitamin C and PDRN are fine together—just split them between morning and night. The only thing to keep in mind? Avoid layering right after strong acids like glycolic or salicylic. “Give it 15 to 20 minutes, or use them on alternate nights,” suggests Dr Agarwal.
So, does salmon sperm serum deserve a spot in your skincare line-up? If you’re over 30, live in a polluted city, or if you have skin that recovers slowly from breakouts, PDRN can be a quiet hero. If you’re still in your twenties with bouncy, resilient skin, your money’s better spent on sunscreen and a solid moisturiser. Looking for quicker, more dramatic results? The in-clinic treatment is still your best bet. But if you’re curious and are willing to play the long game, a good PDRN serum might just leave your skin plumper and smoother over time.
Ready to dive in? Below, see the best PDRN serums to add to cart right now.
