Food21 Aug 20256 MIN

At Delhi’s Pendulo, swinging both ways is a must

In this Indian-Mexican restaurant by chefs Megha Kohli and Noah Louis Barnes, the push and pull between the two cultures comes via a 12-course menu where mezcal is paired with kokum and guacamole scooped up by bhakri

Pendulo I Interior - The Nod Mag

Delhi’s Ambawatta One is the culinary gift that keeps on giving. First came designer Varun Bahl’s pastel-swathed Café Fleur, then Mi Piaci with its Italian charm. Opening September 1—and strutting in like a mariachi band crashing a mehfil—is Pendulo, which, you rightly guessed, is Spanish for ‘pendulum’.

But don’t be fooled; Pendulo isn’t here to play. It has big shoes to fill: the space once hosted Lavaash by Saby and then Vietnamese favourite Chô—both ambitious, beloved experiments.

Step in, and a hulking clay pendulum carved with intricate Indian and Aztec symbols grabs your attention. It doesn’t just reinforce the name; it also sets the vibe. In keeping with the pendulum symbolism, the restaurant swings between two worlds: India and Mexico, past and present, surprise and memory. Right below, a spice bar laden with jars of chillies, flours, and aromatics dares you to lift the lids, take a sniff, and let dry kokum or guajillo spill the secrets of what’s coming.

Behind this carefully choreographed interplay between India and Mexico is restaurateur Sahil Baweja, known for Chica Loca by Sunny Leone in Noida and Roadies Koffeehouz. With Pendulo, Baweja wanted something bold but familiar for Delhi diners—and he roped in top talent to carry out his plans. Chef Megha Kohli, with stints at Lavaash by Saby and Mezze Mambo, brings regional Indian mastery, while Noah Louis Barnes, who has been wowing diners with Mexican fare at Miss Margarita by Arriba in Delhi-NCR, takes care of the other half of the menu. 

Pendulo I Interior The Nod Mag

Together, they leave tired fusion in the dust as they guide diners through a culinary map that dances from Old Delhi’s smoky kebab carts to Mexico City’s midnight taquerías and from Lucknow’s fragrant dum to Oaxaca’s bustling street markets. This journey kicks off right away as you enter. Forget a limp welcome drink—the team serves what they call a ‘palate activator’, essentially your first course. Corn, Oaxaca cheese, and jalapeños take you straight to Mexico, but you’re tugged back to India by jaggery and a whisper of cinnamon.

Once you’ve explored the 50-cover space and lingered long enough at the bar, where everything—syrups, bitters, pickles, and even fermented Mexican horchata—are crafted in-house, sink into the restaurant’s oversized bungalow chairs. You won’t miss the feature wall from there, which echoes the clay pendulum at the entrance with similar motifs, weaving mythology into the decor without tipping into theme-park territory. There are even agave-shaped lights if you look up.

Pendulo’s illustrated cocktail menu, put together by Goa’s Fay Barretto, comes with a compass tilting toward Indian, Mexican, or the centre, symbolising the balance the mixologist has achieved in bringing the best intoxicants from both worlds. Among the 12 signatures, the Fuego Kokum—with mezcal, kokum syrup, ancho chile tincture, and a garnish of house-made nacho with kokum chile gel—hits like a monsoon tide rolling through smoke. There’s also Rasam Revival, a rasam drink reimagined for a nuanced palate, layered over vodka, cut with lime, and softened by salsa’s roundness. Espresso martini fans can’t miss the Lecha Negra, a savoury take with aged cheese and smoked churros for garnish. Bonus: every cocktail has a zero-proof twin—because teetotallers deserve a little fun too.

By now, we were ready to dive into the 12-course tasting menu, where the chefs promise smoky, spiced, acidic, fermented, tender, and sharp notes, all moving in step.

The first dish to arrive is the crunchy Monsoon over the Sonoran. Picture a parade of Indian grain crisps—khakra, bhakri, beetroot, makai, and sabudana papad—each ready to mingle with guacamole, mango habanero salsa, smoky tomato salsa, chili-garlic adobo, and pico de gallo topped with frothy kachumber air. It’s a refreshing detour from the done-to-death nachos and salsa. “This course is meant to set the tone,” explains chef Barnes. “It introduces you to the spectrum of spices and contrasts you will encounter through our menu—even the salsas are designed to play off each other.”

After these crisps, I am eager to taste the Charred Elotes on Calle Madero, a smoky sweet corn dish dusted with tajin, bhang seed, and lehsun salts, brightened with three kinds of lime, including the Indian gondhoraj.

Charred Elotes on the Calle Madero
Charred Elotes on the Calle Madero

The tasting menu keeps you on your toes. The Dhungaar Avocado Agua Chile arrives on a bed of smoked burrani raita, while the tuna version swaps the usual tiger’s milk for a comforting tomato-dhaniya shorba.

The courses that follow—from Avatars of Masa to Twin Flames: Tandoor and Parilla, and Rhapsody of Chiles—offer two or three options each, catering to both vegetarians and non-vegetarians. One that truly stands out is the Crab Tostada Reverso in the Masa course: its top cracks like a crème brûlée, revealing a Goan rechado-spiced treasure underneath that hits all the right notes. Another clear winner is the Mojo De Ajo Lobster from their Tandoor and Parilla section: an applewood-smoked lobster tail served with chipotle-garlic emulsion, jalapeño, and mango chutney—it is smoky, tangy, and indulgent.

What is Mexican fare without tacos? But when they appear, they are nothing like we’ve tried before. Part of the Spice Bazaar Taco is the Tellicherry Pepper Mutton Birria, which steals the show, showcasing bold regional Indian flavours. Tacos with Pickles of Mexico has Kodava pork with a very refreshing watermelon pickle.

The mains, grouped under Mole and Khansama, aim to highlight mole beyond its familiar chocolate association. I tried the Awadhi Lamb Barbacoa with chickpea yellow mole, served alongside cilantro-infused gobindobhog rice. Texturally and flavour-wise, this mole was outstanding—but 11 dishes in, I could only manage a few bites.

Desserts, however, were a quieter note in this symphony. The 60 per cent dark chocolate and chilli mousse, served with horchata phirni crema and chocolate soil, was creamy and well-executed, though it didn’t leave a lasting impression like their other offerings. Similarly, the West Godavari Chocolate Flan was technically precise yet lacked a memorable punch.

Still, the sweets don’t rain on what Pendulo does best: innovation, precision, and playful storytelling on a plate. Each course manages to take you across continents, weaving Indian and Mexican flavours in unexpected ways. And here lies the team’s victory: in the imagination, technique, and taste.

The tasting menu is ambitious, generous, and unapologetically intricate—so, those with an Ozempic stomach, you may want to pace yourself from the start.

The restaurant officially opens on September 1, 2025

Address: Pendulo, First Floor, Ambawatta One, Mehrauli, New Delhi 
Price: (not inclusive of alcohol): ₹5,000 + taxes (vegetarians) and ₹6,000 + taxes (non-vegetarians) for the tasting menu
Timings: 8:30 pm onwards (dinner service only). 30 reservations available per service. Lunch on weekends will begin in a few weeks
Reservations: +91 88003 46565

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