Tiny watches are having a big moment

Let’s start with where it all began. Sources would argue it was the ’60s, but really the whole bigger-is-better phase lasted for over 30 years after that, so I’m going to focus on more recent history. My suspicion hinges on 2022, when the luxury market bounced back after the COVID-19 pandemic and there was an increased interest in gender-neutral watch designs.

The first notable example came when Timothée Chalamet hard-launched his relationship with Kylie Jenner at the Golden Globes and he did it wearing a rare Cartier Crash watch. The skinny, typically women’s timepiece was instantly recognised for its ‘melted dial’ and diamond bezel. Since then, Chalamet has been rocking a slew of Cartier’s daintiest designs, everything from the Panthère to the Tank, in the kind of delicate yet masculine fashion that has audiences swooning and has inspired a barrage of men to opt for the French brand’s tiniest timepieces. Like Rami Malik, who was spotted rocking a diminutive Cartier Tank Louis in the house’s latest campaign.

Going beyond Cartier, you would have needed a magnifying glass to read the time on A$AP Rocky’s 24mm gold Piaget Polo 7131, a playful take on the vintage sport watch, which he wore to the Bottega Veneta show last year. Meanwhile, Bad Bunny’s bite-sized Patek Philippe Ellipse Ref 4832 comes studded with diamonds and has a pink leather strap. The point we’re making? It’s not about size; it’s about style. And the rules no longer apply.

While some enjoy blurring the lines between men’s and women’s watches, for others a timepiece no larger than a coin leaves more room for experimentation. The quintessential male of 2025 is double-wristing. The idea is to wear your digital tracking device on one hand, and a watch on the other—think Virat Kohli sporting both a Rolex and a Whoop at the recent India-Pakistan cricket match—allowing the wrist with the analog creation to be front and centre. The combination of two timepieces means that many men are choosing creations that are tinier than expected for a more balanced effect.

Until the ’70s, watch dials were essentially no larger than 36mm, at best 37mm. Anything above was considered ‘too big’. It wasn’t until Audemars Piguet came out with its Royal Oak in 1972, with its sprawling 39mm dial, that large dials emerged as a concept. Over the years the Royal Oak has seen many sizes, and as of 2024 has been shrunk down to 23mm and frosted in gold, silver, and rose gold. Omega, on the other hand, has reimagined their classic Seamster in 37mm, a decrease from the original 39mm piece that they released in 1948, while Tissot has celebrated the mini-watch trend with their beloved PRX, sizing it down to a mere 25mm.

But that’s just the tip of the iceberg, fashion and accessory stylist Ayesha Amin Nigam explains. “Since the accessory pool for men is limited, watches really become more of an expression,” she says. “I have been asked to source delicate creations that first and foremost tie in with a client’s personality, and more often, it’s not for watches that scream their presence, but rather those that hum their synergy to the ensemble.” While Cartier comes on top of her recommendations, another popular timepiece is the slim Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. It’s got royal approval, King Charles III already has one in 23mm.

For many watch aficionados, while size matters, it’s the thought that counts. Most recently, singer, songwriter and composer Anuv Jain wore an elegant Cartier Santos for his wedding, a watch that he has been spotted in numerous times before, adding a layer of familiarity to his celebrations. Much like Indian rapper Dilin Nair aka Raftaar, who is rarely seen without his Rolex Datejust, even on his wedding day. For these men, it’s all about immortalising a ‘small’ yet special day with a moment in time.