The retro windbreaker is this summer’s coolest layer

We know it’s the peak of summer right now and we’re talking about jackets. Crazy. But let me explain. The current interest in ’90s-era windbreakers has little to do with the weather—although they will serve a purpose when the monsoon hits in a month. It’s more about reliving a certain moment in time. The era of grainy VHS aerobics tapes and high-saturation music videos where the wardrobe was as loud as the bass. The current take moves past the crunchy hiker aesthetic that’s a little more sincere and technical and is more about reclaiming the energy and making it feel sleek for a city pavement.

We’ve seen the trend crystallise in real time over the last few weeks. Just days ago in New York, Zendaya stepped out in a masterclass of sporty coordination, elevating a sleek, oversized half-zip anorak by pairing it with matching parachute trousers, proving that even a full kit can feel polished. Back in September, everyone from Fendi and Loewe to Miu Miu and Prada showed soft-shell jackets in bright eye-catching colours on their spring/summer runways. At the Saint Laurent show, Hailey Bieber and Charli XCX sat front row in vintage-inspired colour-blocked shells thrown over lace-trimmed babydoll shorts and sheer tights, while Zoë Kravitz wore a khaki bomber version with a pale-yellow silk slip skirt and PVC pumps. It’s that exact sartorial tension of the nylon against the softness of the lingerie that makes the look feel unmistakably now.

It comes as no surprise that the hottest item of Q1 according to the Lyst index is Saint Laurent’s stand-collar jacket, which secured the top spot, surprising even Adidas’s Chinese-style track jacket. The trick is to treat the windbreaker as a high-fashion disruptor. We’re talking about the architectural precision of a Loewe technical shell or Prada’s iconic Re-Nylon elevated with a column skirt and a sharp pump. For those leaning into that contrast between gorpcore and glamour, Miu Miu’s technical silk and Ganni’s signature leopard-print versions are perfect—they'll ensure you’re prepared for the elements without ever looking like you’re actually headed for a campsite. Plus, if you’re the kind who is willing to wear one for the sake of fashion even in the current heat wave, take solace in the fact that a modern windbreaker is paper-thin, breathable, and—most importantly—officially the coolest way to weather the season. Below, our selection of styles that ensure you’re prepared for the elements without looking like you’re headed for a campsite.