Fashion03 Oct 20244 MIN

Amit Hansraj’s note to Wendell Rodricks, on carrying on the late designer’s legacy

“From you, I realised that you need to know the box and be comfortable in it before you start thinking outside it”

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A look from Amit Hansraj's first collection for the brand

Amit Hansraj can tell you a lot about Indian fashion. For over 20 years, he has worked across the industry—in merchandising, marketing, styling, even blogging, before launching his own label, Inca, just four years ago. Now, at 46, he is adding a new title to his resumé: creative director of the Wendell Rodricks label. The label is currently owned by Purple Style Labs, a retail conglomerate helmed by entrepreneur Abhishek Aggarwal, who bought it in 2020, months after the Goa-based designer’s untimely death.

It’s an announcement that’s had the Indian fashion world abuzz over the last 24 hours, and one Hansraj doesn’t take lightly. “I feel honoured. Not nervous, but honoured. If I can manage to not get influenced by other people’s expectations of Wendell, then I shall be able to manage it pretty well,” he shares.

While Hansraj never got the chance to meet Rodricks himself, he has spent a considerable time speaking to the icon’s friends and family as well as deep diving into the label’s extensive archives, to get a better sense of the man whose work he had long admired. For his first collection, he reimagined Rodricks’s garden in Goa. “I used pleating to create ‘leaves’ out of satin that would imitate the structure of a coconut palm,” says Hansraj, whose key inspiration piece was a big garland or top made of actual coconut leaves that are shredded, painted gold, and decorated with shells and coral.

The collection features over 25 pieces—dresses, jumpsuits, even a pre-stitched sari—in free-flowing fabrics such as chiffon and georgette. It was designed to the tune of ’90s dance music act Enigma’s meditative, lyrical sounds. “There was something very surreal and spiritual about it; I watched the videos on loop as well. Plus it’s nostalgic and reminds me of my teenage, ” he recalls.

As he takes the reins of this label, Hansraj writes an open letter to its much-loved founder.

Dear Wendell,

As I begin to helm the label you so lovingly created, my mind is going back to my 13-year-old self. The one who constantly felt trapped at home, who couldn’t wait to be an adult and move out. Looking back, I remember picking up an issue of Femina and that image of supermodel Madhu Sapre wearing just a bra top that you designed entirely out of seashells is hard to forget. (I later learnt it was a photograph by Farrokh Chothia). As a young boy who had not yet come to terms with his sexuality, that image captured the sense of liberation that I longed for. But I would tell that boy to learn something else from you as well, and that would be to look within, to be in the present rather than wait for the future.

You designed clothes that were meant for everyday life. In India, I know we tend to celebrate things that are more extravagant, so smaller voices like yours and mine can get lost. But like you, I don’t think beautiful clothing should only be reserved for big events, for weddings and engagements. Real clothing is for the moments you are in right now.

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The late Wendell Rodricks

The way you built your life so that you could be closer to your Goan roots was also a lesson to all of us. Through your clothes, you weren’t trying to create a ‘Western’ look for India or seeking inspiration in the Mughals or the Roman Empire. You looked at the world around you, at the colours of the bougainvilleas, the drape of the Kunbi sari, even the shape of a coconut leaf that was so deftly translated in the way you cut your chiffon. From you, I realised that you need to know the box and be comfortable in it before you start thinking outside it.

So I will think of you when I open that bottle of wine that I’ve been saving for a special day.

Much love,
Amit