In Nagaland, the bridal mekhala makes a quiet comeback

Growing up in Dimapur in the early 1990s, PR professional and textile entrepreneur Moala Longchar would often see brides in white mekhalas—a contemporary take on the traditional Naga wrap skirt. While her mother chose a classic white wedding gown for her wedding in the early ’80s, she remembers her aunts who wore contemporary white mekhalas for their church ceremonies, even while white gowns had already come into the picture. “When it comes to weddings in the new generation, you can only imagine the white wedding gown,” she says. “Honestly, the concept of wearing mekhalas for weddings died out completely when we started getting so many beautiful white wedding gowns imported from China, Thailand, and Korea.”

It was one of those vanishings no one really noticed until it was gone—and it stuck with her. In 2023, she founded Kintem with the idea to reimagine traditional Naga textiles to create “indigenously modern” silhouettes that bridge the gap between tradition and modernity. Think mekhalas, shawls, stoles, and home textiles crafted from natural yarns and silks through traditional techniques like loin loom weaving, hand stitching, and natural dyeing—patient practices that give a garment its soul. Longchar is a second-generation textile entrepreneur who was inspired by her mother’s weaving business, the Wapangla Weaving Unit, which collaborates with a network of Naga weavers from various local communities. The name Kintem translates to “communities” in the Ao Naga dialect, and doubles as both mission statement and design philosophy.

“Nowadays, most women still wear mekhalas for engagements,” Longchar says, “but in the last year or two, we’ve started seeing young brides embracing the mekhala again—not just for ceremonies before the wedding, but for the wedding itself. It’s spilling over into bridal attire.”

It all began last year, when Longchar was surprised to find a customisation request from a client in her inbox. The client, author and English professor Avinuo Kure, was looking for a special piece for her big day in Paro Valley, Bhutan in the spring of 2024. “I am a Naga, and whenever there is a special occasion, I almost always turn to the mekhala,” Kure says. “So, for my wedding day, there was really no question of not wearing something other than our beloved mekhala—an attire which is not just beautiful and feminine, but more importantly, also represents my culture and identity.” The moment she decided on the mekhala, she reached out to Longchar for a bespoke set. Together, they designed an all-white mekhala and stole in pure cotton, with subtle motifs in ivory modal yarn. “As far as weaving technique and selection of yarn was concerned, I trusted Kintem to give them creative freedom. My only request was that a motif from one of my mother’s mekhala should be adopted into the set. I told Moala this was my ‘something borrowed’.”

That same year, Kintem dressed several more brides, which sparked something bigger. In June 2025, Kintem launched its first-ever bridal line, Bonded—a collection of mekhalas for brides, bridesmaids, and wedding guests. “It was in the back of my mind for a long time,” she says. “But I wanted it to happen organically.” Given that the label dressed four brides in the last year alone, she felt confident about taking the leap of faith.

The Bonded collection updates Kintem’s signature styles with subtle shimmer—slivers of gold, silver, green, and champagne pink woven into familiar Naga motifs like the Züngijang (cucumber seed pattern), bands, and boxes (some that Kintem has developed in-house). “We wanted to really keep the design DNA intact so people look at it, and they can recognise it’s a Kintem mekhala. I just added sheen, which is not there in most of our classic pieces, with an extra weft design in metallic yarn, because wedding brides do expect a little bit of sheen.” The bridal iteration of their Lisor and Lumi mekhalas even feature mini hand-sewn brass bells onto the fabric, a nod to takatsür süpeti, or “the rich woman’s mekhala” as these wrap skirts were once exclusive to the affluent. Prices range from ₹8,000 to ₹12,000. “I wanted it to stay budget-friendly,” says Longchar. “We do the eri and muga silk only on request, because those are a bit more expensive. It’s very affordable compared to a white wedding gown that might start at ₹25,000.”

The collection was launched via Instagram with a campaign that revisted the past, referencing imagery of Naga brides from the ’90s and featuring elements like betel nuts and leaves and the Ketsü or Aket (traditional handwoven bamboo and cane baskets containing the bridal trousseau), all of which play an important role in traditional Ao Naga weddings. “People really resonated with it. I received a lot of messages from young girls saying that if they ever do get married, they want to wear Kintem.”

The momentum is part of a broader shift in northeastern fashion, Longchar believes. “A few years ago, the mekhala market was so disorganised—people were just selling one-off pieces with photos clicked on a phone. Now, there’s this new energy around fashion that originates from the northeast. We’ve always worn so much from the West; I think it’s time to embrace what we have.”

Among Kintem’s brides this year is Toronto-based Leeann Saldanha, a quality assurance team lead at Canada Goose, who will be walking down the aisle this December in Dimapur. She chose the mekhala as something deeply personal to honour her fiancé’s Naga heritage. “I wanted my bridal look to be a reflection of both our worlds coming together. The mekhala with its handwoven textures and traditional motifs, is not just a trend, but a story woven in fabric.” Her Mangalorean family and friends, initially unfamiliar with the garment, are curious and excited to learn about the garment’s significance and craftsmanship. “There’s a shared sense of pride in celebrating two traditions through fashion,” says Saldanha.

For Longchar, seeing non-Nagas embrace the mekhala is both heartening and something she approaches with care. “My mother’s business is rooted in traditional textiles, while mine is more contemporary,” she explains. “It’s safer for non-Nagas to wear contemporary pieces because they don’t come with traditional norms attached. But when it comes to the classic ones, I always educate them—that it’s a mekhala, and it should be worn as one. Don’t snip it into a dress or a top.”

Both Kintem brides Kure and Saldanha share they will be rewearing their wedding mekhalas. “Fashion should be sustainable. Mekhalas are quite versatile so just by switching the blouse, one can create a range of different outfits with a single set,” says Kure. Saldanha agrees: “I didn’t want my bridal outfits to be something I wear only once. I see it as a piece I can restyle for a Mangalorean Roce or other festive occasions with a contemporary blouse, or a structured jacket for a more modern look.”

For Longchar, this revival isn’t about nostalgia. It’s about continuity—about reclaiming something quietly sidelined and giving it new air. “It’s not about rejecting the gown. They are stunning, of course, and we’ll always have a soft corner for a white gown,” she says. “It’s about expanding what bridalwear can mean for Naga women today.”

To place an order, DM @kin_tem on Instagram. Studio visits in Dimapur are available via appointment