Food17 Jul 20253 MIN

Glass office block on the outside, Italian grotto (with cocktails) on the inside

A meal at Latango, Delhi’s newest cave-style bar and European eatery, feels like an Italian getaway

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There was a time when Nehru Place looked poised to become Delhi’s next cool pocket. Fio Cookhouse had a vibe, The Chatter House pulled steady crowds, and for a hot second, it felt like the neighbourhood might actually pull it off. Then, in a classic Delhi move, the buzz moved on and Nehru Place hit snooze.

Enter Latango, the newest venture from Sahil Sambhi (the man behind VietNom, Bawri, and Japonico). The spot isn’t just giving this side of town a glow-up—it’s bent on making an odd Tuesday night feel like a Riviera escape.

Step inside and you are transported to the Amalfi Coast. Inspired by Italy’s Emerald Grotto, the 165-cover space, designed by Vivek Guha of Orphic Designs, shimmers in aquatic blues, echoing the sea cave that sparked Sambhi’s imagination on a month-long trip through Europe. That coastal charm comes together at the unmissable bar: sculptural, elemental, and lit like a mood.

Across the main floor, mezzanine, or alfresco deck, a sense of effortlessness prevails. Raw concrete grounds the space, corten steel ceilings radiate warmth, and bouclé seating, flickering glass, and greenery soften the edges. “With all my restaurants, the goal is to raise the bar, not just with food, but with the entire experience,” says Sambhi. “In India, we’re not short of good restaurants. But too often, you go, eat, and leave. A feeling of wonder should come from the whole experience, not just what’s on your plate.”

Latango New Delhi The Nod Mag
Reminiscent of Italy’s Emerald Grotto, the cave-like sculptural bar was inspired by Sambhi’s month-long Europe trip

This narrative also flows through their postcard-style cocktail menu, titled ‘Letters from Two Worlds’, which was conceived in collaboration with Vikram Achanta’s Tulleeho and brought to life by Italian mixologists Giovanni and Terry Depergola. It isn’t just a menu; it’s a passport in pours where each drink lands like a quiet dialogue between East and West, myth and memory.

Their bold, citrusy, and bittersweet Cubist Negroni, a blend of tequila, Italian amaro, and Aperol, reads like a letter from Picasso to Amrita Sher-Gil: ‘crimson as spilled paint and sacred blood. A manifesto in a coupe’ notes the menu. The Nudist Picante tips its hat to Donald Judd and SH Raza—crisp apple and tequila rounded out by kaffir lime and heat. Minimalist, but make it spicy. Then there’s Dali Bloom, a surrealist whisper from Salvador Dalí to Tyeb Mehta. “This cocktail I’ve sent,” Dalí says, “is not a bloom—it’s the memory of one. The blue tea is fragrant like grief. You’ll taste echoes of grapefruit and not know why you weep.”

Other standouts? Form and Function, where vodka meets French orange liqueur, Coorg estate coffee, and spice, served with a Parmigiano crisp. There’s also Expressionist Elixir—whiskey brightened by citrus and amaro, layered with toasted nuts, and crowned with a silky drip of Belgian white chocolate as an extra treat. It’s bold, boisterous, and unapologetically extra.

The flair may start at the bar, but it finds its roots in the kitchen. At Latango, the classics aren’t reinvented, they are revered. Italian chefs Roberto Blondi and Joe Stanchi bring decades of lived experience to the table. Blondi, shaped by stints at Eleven Madison Park and Maropía, lends finesse and balance to the menu. Stanchi, trained at Naples’s legendary Starita a Materdei, is a master pizzaiolo—among the finest in the world.

Naturally, the pizzas are where Stanchi’s artistry shines. The base is crafted using a 48-hour biga fermentation and 00 flour imported from Italy, resulting in a crust that’s light and airy. Choose from the familiar Margherita or Diavola, or go bold with the Gochujang, topped with Korean chilli oil, sesame, and yellow cheddar. The Francese layers smoked salmon, prawns, mascarpone, and lemon zest over mozzarella fior di latte. There’s also a playful nod to India that we didn’t dare visit: Namaste is a pizza with spinach sauce, roasted chicken, paneer, capsicum, and spring onion.

As if the spectacle of a cave-like bar wasn’t enough, Sambhi commissioned what he calls the “world’s only double-decker live setup” for the kitchen. The base holds the pizza oven and bread station; above that, the cold kitchen preps salads, desserts, and gunkan; and on top, the hot kitchen is where Blondi and team bring the heat. It’s a layered, high-functioning space that mirrors the menu’s precision and ambition.

That choreography comes through on the plate. The stracciatella cheese salad lands fresh and velvety, offset by roasted bell pepper and a slick of crispy chilli oil. Scallop sashimi comes dressed in house-made ponzu, togarashi, and lemon zest—Japanese in spirit but filtered through a European gaze. The octopus salad, with green sauce, fried capers, and garlic chips, nods to the southern coasts. Tenderloin carpaccio is sliced paper-thin, finished with Cipriani sauce, rocket leaves, and shaved parmesan. The Atlantic Crab California Gunkan is a clever play on sushi—though, if only the cream cheese had been used more sparingly, the crab could shine through.

For mains, the Atlantic Crab Tagliolini, tossed with roasted bell pepper and marjoram butter, channels the sun-drenched coasts of Italy. The Omelette Café de Paris, paired with sundried tomato pesto, garlic sauce, and fresh leaves, leans into pure French comfort. The sauces amp up the tang, but this might not work for everyone.

Don’t forget to leave some place for dessert though, where the Italian-style tiramisu comes finished with a caviar-like coffee garnish. There’s also the panna cotta, served with house-made mango ice cream and seasonal fruit—both elegant finales to a meal that feels like a getaway. 

Latango may be buried in an office block, but from first pour to last bite, it’s strictly out-of-office vibes.

Meal for two: ₹6,000 (with alcohol)

Address: Epicuria, Unit No S, Ground floor, Nehru Place, New Delhi

Timings: 6 pm to 2 am. Opening for lunch from 21st July (noon to 5 pm)

Reservations: +91 92898 59289

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