Jubilee Hills’ new Cantonese spot doesn’t aim to please everyone

There’s a certain largeness to the city of pearls—living life king size is instilled in everything from cafes to restaurants to bars. As I climb up a short flight of stairs of what looks like an old building (but is, in fact, new) on a traffic-logged main road, a slanted rooftop twinkling with lights, balconies softly lit, and an amber glow rising from within, reveals a backlit sign: Lili. Named after Li, a common Chinese surname, this is the newest entrant to Hyderabad’s nightlife scene.

I scurry past a wall lined with LED pillar candles and into a 45-seater room that has a lively, boisterous energy. The bar sits beneath a humongous light installation, its movement and energy echoing in the hands of the mixologist pushing through a round of libations.

I get the sense that I’ve seen this before—the reds juxtaposed with chaotic layering, and torso-less bizarre heads leaning close to Surrealism. The fleeting sense of recognition soon settles into the unmistakable stamp of Siddharth Kerkar, the Goa-based artist, who put a kinetic hands installation as the centrepiece of Assagao speakeasy, Drop Dead Sexy. His striking work can also be found at Soka (Bengaluru), later echoed through recurring signatures like the rotating heads at Dali & Gala. 

I mention the similarities these spaces evoke, in passing to the founders, Abhilasha Oruganti and Naveen Krishna, both warm and clearly invested, who, along with Navyatha Reddy, brought this Hyderabad space together. “It’s not about pushing him into something new but about holding that boldness and balancing it,” says Oruganti about working with Kerkar. The idea was always to let the art do the heavy lifting while keeping a minimalistic base so it works just as easily for a quick lunch as it does for a slower night.

Step out toward the pillared verandah, a dark green al fresco pause facing the street, and you see the space has an intentional old-world charm about it. Inside, at the private dining—almost essential in Hyderabad’s more discreet social groups—the design softens. The detailing goes down to the creative use of orange nail paint on each warm white bulb in the chandeliers, further adding contrast to illustrated plates, playful serveware, red table lamps and close seating, all of it channelling a playful Cantonese home.

The moment I am seated, bowls of sour kimchi and a sublime rice-wine-vinegar-steeped green chilli arrive. I pick at them with chopsticks and kickstart my appetite.

Expectedly, the cocktails, created by Gaurav Dhyani, World Class India winner 2018, lean into sweet-sour flavour profiles, something that still finds favour in Hyderabad’s evolving drinking circles. The menu is concise and sharp. “We’ve kept the formula non-intimidating, focusing instead on the craft and execution, with minimal drama. No smoke and mirrors here; we leave that for the walls,” explains Dhyani as I sip on a tall, vermilion-hued drink with white chocolate skirting called Super Juice (Bombay Sapphire, Aperol, sweet and sour with a rhododendron sparkle). It’s easy, bright...exactly what Hyderabad’s weather calls for around this time. There’s a natural progression here; if you’re in the mood to drink, it almost plays like an omakase. You can slip between Wonderfruit (Grey Goose, Campari, watermelon cordial, turmeric vinegar) or the slightly sharper No. 13 with its miso-honey and smokey mist, before moving into deeper territory.

As the evening settles, Meet Me Backside (Dewar’s 12, cacao amaro, and black lemon cordial) feels like a fitting closer, especially if you enjoy darker, more contemplative drinks. The Long Live Martini, on the other hand, is questionably disarming. A sesame-infused gin, clear tomato, and honey come together in a way that reads umami but ultimately slips into a familiar sweet-sour territory.

Overall, the drinks hold well on their own, without the interference of food. The classics are executed as expected. My Pegu Club was clean and balanced, though the Hemingway Daiquiri stops just short, leaning slightly diluted for what should be a sharper, spirit-forward expression. Once the food arrives, however, I would recommend sticking with the classics or their signature highballs as the layering of flavours on the plate deserves its own space.

The dishes are Cantonese at their core, with just enough flourish to not overwhelm. Brand chef Tarun Bhatia, alongside chef Dipendra Shrestha, builds on a foundation that traces back to Oruganti’s earlier venture, China Town, a 300 sq ft kitchen tucked into the bustling One Drive In on Road No 10. A through-and-through Indo-Chinese spot, China Town found overnight success amongst late-night diners and comfort seekers alike. “But with Lili, the intent shifted,” explains Krishna. “We chose to step away from pleasing everyone, moving beyond volume and predictability toward something more refined in its Cantonese expression.” 

The menu reflects this balance. There are the usual suspects—hakka noodles, egg fried rice, and spring rolls, albeit stretched into crispy cigars with a phyllo pastry shell. But much of it leans into a more exploratory space. The wild mushroom noodles bring depth and umami with truffle, while the buckwheat noodles add texture with chilli paste, fried herbs, and almond slivers.

Coming back to why I set aside the cocktails, the soups are the surprise act. Both the Silk & Funghi XO, which is tomato-forward with tofu and lapsang souchong, and the saline, ocean-scented Dashi Sichuan, with seaweed, fennel, and water chestnut, are highly recommended.

Amongst the small plates, the Shanghai Spring Cucumber works beautifully, while the Oriental Taco plays its cross-cultural part with ease. The Mala Lamb, Oruganti’s personal favourite, packs the right amount of heat and nuttiness. The charred asparagus and spicy aubergine are steadfast offerings for vegetarians while the dim sum selection is unmissable. Every table, overflowing with golden garlic chicken cheung fun and the edamame tofu qing dim sums, was in on the secret. 

Across woks, rice, and noodles, the OG XO Prawns is rich and deeply savoury with aged XO, while the Picante Lobster Royale pops with Sichuan heat in a chilli-spiked bisque.

The Un-Wonton Salad, available with smoked chicken or avocado variants, was missing the perky yuzu dressing it promised; its wispy wonton shells feel somewhat disconnected from the scattered filling. The Biang Bang Chicken, too, lacked the punch of a tart, heat-driven creamy dressing—the kind that makes it addictive. Also among promising on paper but not so much on the table was the Pork Belly Baoger.  

If you have space for their rotating desserts—the crème brûlée of the month or a seasonal cheesecake—indulge. I peel myself off the chair and make my way back to the bar for one last Meet Me Backside before calling it a night.

Address: Plot No 1069, Road No 45, Jubilee Hills, Hyderabad - 500033 

Timings: Lunch: 12 pm to 4 pm; dinner: 7 pm to 11 pm (open till 12:30 am on weekends)

Meal for two: ₹5,000 (including drinks)

Reservations: +(91) 8143820055