Style notes from people-watching at the biggest art event in Delhi

“But nothing’s matching,” says artist Mithu Sen of her outfit, surprised we would ask for a picture. She is being modest—Sen makes it to best-dressed lists almost as often as she makes news for her art. On day one of India Art Fair (IAF), which took place between 6-9 February in Delhi, the artist wore an all-black ensemble—an assemblage of garments picked from flea markets all over the world including a scarf she found in Belgium, an amphora necklace, and a pair of Chinese leg warmers, a 100-year-old number foraged from a friend’s grandmother. “Doesn’t she look like a work of art herself?” says Shireen Gandhy, gallerist and director of Chemould Prescott Road which represents Sen, as the artist poses next to her works.

In its 16th edition, IAF has a record 120 exhibitors spread across the NSIC Exhibition Grounds. At noon, the venue still offers some breathing space and time for art gazing, schmoozing and people-spotting. The first day’s quiet—fleeting, and soon to disappear in the face of growing crowds—belies the intensity of business underway in the booths. IAF brings India’s top art collectors together, as well as a sprinkling of celebrities that range from filmmakers Mira Nair and Shekhar Kapur to Netflix's fabulous stars Shalini Passi and Kalyani Saha Chawla, and siblings Gauravi Kumari (repping Jimmy Choo, which she endorses) and Padmanabh Singh of Jaipur’s erstwhile royal family. In the design booths, the likes of architect and designer Ashiesh Shah—dressed in a kurta pyjama and bandi, with only an emerald brooch hinting at extravagance—attend to a steady stream of clients. Artists Jiten Thukral and Sumir Tagra, of Thukral and Tagra, both dressed in shades of blue, flit from guests to friends talking about trees (the subject of their art on display), their creative project Sustaina India (in its second edition, and on display at Delhi’s STIR Gallery), and the business of art fair (big sales usually happen between 9.30 am and 2.30 pm).

Little wonder that galleries and artists started pasting red dots well before the first day was over. “The fair’s looking fresh and really well-laid out and one must feel proud to present this to the world,” says Priyanka Raja, co-founder of Experimenter Kolkata. The day is building up to be a “phenomenal success” for Experimenter, and Raja is dressed for the part—a black Antar-Agni ensemble topped with a custom jacket from the Kolkata boutique, Kanishka’s, silver ear cuffs, rings, and sneakers.

Fashion has deep roots in IAF, beginning with the annual opening day ritual of the event’s curatorial team dressed up in Raw Mango looks. A new style partner for this edition was Paiwand Studio which dressed the Young Collectors Programme team. “I loved how everyone chose pieces that suited their personalities—so everyone looks different,” says Ashita Singh, Paiwand’s founder and creative director who is wearing her own design. 

In a place where sightings of designer bags, sunnies and shoes rises by the minute, style wins when it tells a story. Artists seem to understand that better than anyone else. Take Vadodara-based Tito Stanley for instance, with his acid-green dyed hair, and a white, faux leather outfit he has designed, subtly referencing the art he is showing with Anant Gallery. “It’s a bit dangerous to hug people,” admits the artist about the silver spikes on his garment that match his many jewels. Artist Sagarika Sundaram, exhibiting one of her textile art installations at Nature Morte, credits her boyfriend for the vintage blazer from Giorgio Armani’s erstwhile diffusion line Mani that she’s wearing over a handwoven tunic from West Africa, and thread earrings from Oaxaca. “It’s my first time here. It’s fun to see all the colourful characters along with the art.”

Around afternoon, the crowd begins to swell, cascading through booths and corridors. Saris raided from family closets, glittering sneakers, and chrome nails shine. Flea buys and DIY abounds, and forgetfulness seems to be almost a flex. Overheard refrains include “Where did you get this from?” and “I have no idea dude.” 

In front of the VIP lounge, a voice calls out “Sir, this is not a restaurant,” as visitors demand to be put on a waitlist. There are no lists at the restaurants either, which have popped up here for the art event—only plenty of waiting. We spot Jaiveer Johal nursing a picante; the Chennai based entrepreneur and art collector is dressed in péro, a floral applique on denim jacket blooming over striped handloom trousers. “I dress up everyday. But I really like dressing up in Delhi because, unlike Madras, there are seasons here.”

For artist Valay Gada, the venue’s overstimulation is in contrast to his art which references his time in isolation during the Covid-19 pandemic. “I want to run away.” At least, his outfit is soothing—a purple-printed shirt from Darwaza, paired with a jacket from a London flea market, hand-stitched trousers, and a brooch he has self-designed. Who isn’t fazed by the crowds? Designer Vinita Chaitanya, a bright spark in Pleats Please by Issey Miyake. No “boring” photos in front of grey backgrounds, please. “Shall I sit on the carpet,” she says pointing to the collaborative designs by Rashid Rana and Jaipur Rugs, as she promptly settles down.

By the time we exit, we’re dreading the stagnant traffic outside, even as people are still clamouring to get in. In the outdoor spaces, attendees blur into each other. Wine glasses clink to music by Gandhar and Linh Tonik performing against the backdrop of an installation by the brand Satya Paul. Handlooms collide with streetwear, towering heels find their footing past chunky sneakers, and pantsuits rub shoulders with pherans. Depending on how you feel about it, it is a crowd, a cacophony or a coming together—in a way, a microcosm of the colourful canvas that is Delhi.