Ashish Karmali has been in the game long before you noticed

Age: 28

Profession: Designer and visual artist

From: Jharkhand, India

Currently in: New Delhi, India

Where it all began: At just 28, this multi-hyphenate designer has already racked up an impressive CV. A NIFT Delhi graduate (class of 2019), he began his journey at Akaaro before doing stints with Ashish Gupta and Amy Stephenson. He then delved into embroidery and block printing at Eka and then went solo in 2022. Since then, he’s lent his creative touch—as illustrator and designer—to studios like Journey of Objects, Bodice, Byredo, Cord, Raw Mango, and Gundi Studios. With admirers like Alexander Fury, Grace Wales Bonner, and Sarah Mower, he’s racked up an enviable CV within a decade.

What’s cooking in his design lab: “My latest collection, The Space In-Between, for which I’m making a piece using this felted paper that I sourced from Okhla in Delhi. After I stitched the paper, I realised it doesn’t tear; it’s stretchy and usable. The shopkeeper in Delhi explained that this material is normally used for homeware and leather products.”

His mum’s saris went global: “During the lockdown in 2020, I went back to my hometown, and that’s when I discovered my mom’s old saris. I asked her to let me create something with them. I worked with my cousins and created the design ‘Shakti’, inspired by Chhath Puja. It became a part of Byredo’s ‘Mumbai Noise’ international fragrance campaign in India [2021]. It was shot by Ashish Shah and received very well; it remains one of my favourite pieces.”

On his collab wishlist: “I’m a huge fan of Rei Kawakubo, and if I get a chance to work or collaborate with her at Comme des Garçons, that would be great.”

Designing for someone else feels like… “I’ve always found it exciting to create something with new brands—and even better when it’s convincing. I don’t think it ever really belongs to just one person. In design, building something meaningful often requires a team; you need people.”

Creativity runs in his family: “In 2023, I was working on a collection called ‘My Mother’, and while I was stuck on a sleeve pattern, my mom brought out a big old trunk. Inside were three of her diaries from the ’80s and ’90s. One had sketches and notes in Hindi and English and patterns—things like how a pyjama is made. The second had miniature prototypes—tiny, handmade clothes neatly placed inside. The third had makeup techniques from a course she did in Jammu, with collages of Bollywood actors and notes on bindis and skincare. It was all so well preserved. Even my dad has always loved calligraphy and painting in his spare time.”

His creative juices peak at night: “To be honest, most of my ideas tend to come when I’m alone at night, especially when I go for walks or stroll on the JNU [Jawaharlal Nehru University] campus. I also go with my friends to Green Park or Hauz Khas Village.”

His design process? Cut, paste, ace: “If a project requires tech-based input like print, I use Illustrator. But I don’t enjoy working on direct programmes like Procreate. I prefer an old-school design process, where I explore ideas and collaborate. Most of the time, I work by hand, curating, sketching, and assembling everything on paper. I often create illustrative sketches or experiment with collages and cut-and-paste techniques.”

Artists he’s drawn to: “There’s David Hockney in terms of modern art. I also love Gaudí and Monet; I know it’s a cliché pick. Amongst contemporary artists, there’s Banksy, but I also love Ted Larsen. I like the way he plays with colour palettes; it’s very interesting.”

One book that rules his bookshelf: “Art by Andrew Graham Dixon, where you get to know the history of art. I highly recommend it.”

His screen time? Split between YouTube and old-school Bollywood: “When it comes to music, I keep going back to Pakeezah—it’s amazing. I enjoy classic Hindi films. The songs, the lyrics... There’s so much happening in them. Tracks like ‘Thare Rahiyo’ and ‘Inhi Logon Ne’ (Pakeezah, 1972) have these beautiful thumris in the background. And I love Dimple Kapadia’s work, especially in Rudaali (1993). I’m also into British period dramas like Sense & Sensibility, A Room with a View, and The Secret Garden.”

His plan B (if not in fashion): “I think I’d say art and painting were my first love. Ever since I was little, I’ve been creating and have always been drawn to paintings.”

What’s next? “I’ll be leaving for Kingston University in London this September. I want to have my own label. I’m not sure when, but I understand the importance of gaining enough experience before carefully making my move. I never rush into things because I’m not seeking validation. Rather, it’s my world where I create and put out what I feel, just as it is. I’m trying to work and do better, not just for me but for the community itself—for home.”