Cocktail saris with a twist

A sari is a dynamic, evolving garment, one that has shape-shifted with the moods and trends of the times, as well as practicality. This evolution has made it as much a hallmark of tradition, as an opportunity for creativity—and fun twists.

Riddhi Jain, the founder of Studio Medium, and creator of the shibori-dyed hands-free sari, says, “For me, the sari has always been a blank canvas, the multiple ways one can wear and drape a sari really allow you to make it your own. It embodies contrasts—sensual and formal, playful and poised.”

These new iterations are glamorous, festive—perfect for when the dress code on the wedding invitation reads “cocktail attire” or “Indian formal”—and yet unique enough for you to stand out in a sea of guests.

Along with Jain, many designers have attempted to make wearing the sari easier, offering skirts with zips and attached pallus that let you skip the messy pins-and-pleats step. No wonder Zendaya and Lisa Ray looked so comfortable wearing Rahul Mishra’s ultra-dressy, hand-embroidered sari gowns. Or why anyone who’s chosen a piece from Shweta Kapur and textile house Ekaya’s latest collaboration will also attest to its ease. The latter collection includes a skirt with a gathered detail on the front to mimic the pleats on a sari and a pre-fastened pallu that can be easily thrown over the shoulder.

Studio Medium’s hands-free sari offers a different kind of freedom with a sleeve detail that allows you to put your hand through the pallu rather than just have it hanging at the end. Says Jain, “We’ve always been fascinated by how shibori can create structure and form within fabric. By manipulating the textile and responding to its transformations, we discovered ways to reimagine the pallav as a functional sleeve.”

When it comes to the fabric, cording seems to be the technique of choice for many designers. Amit Aggarwal used cording and micro-pleating to turn vintage Banarasi saris into his sari-gown hybrids that have been worn by everyone from Priyanka Chopra Jonas to Isha Ambani. For Aggarwal, the Banarasi sari creates a dialogue between the past and the future and, “from a technical standpoint, its combination of silk and zari (metallic thread) provides both structural strength and the ability to capture fine detailing, making it an ideal base for our vision.”

Rimzim Dadu first showed her metal sari on the runway at Lakmé Fashion Week in 2016. Since then, it’s been worn by Sonam Kapoor, Alia Bhatt, and Kiara Advani among others. She explains, “re-engineered textiles have now become synonymous with my brand and cords are the building blocks to these textiles.” The version in this editorial is a one-of-a-kind collector’s item inspired by the colours and motifs of the Gujarati patola sari.

Cording is also Vaishali Shadangule’s signature technique. The founder of the label Vaishali S started working with this method in 2008 because of its ability to lend structure and shape whether for a teeny-tiny going-out top or a lush, flower-shaped jacket. On saris, she says, “This way, I don’t have to pleat my saris, it’s just about the proportion of the cording.” Another reason is also sustainability: “It’s a zero-waste technique. You can use all your leftover textiles to make more cords.”

A reworked take on the sari also opens it up to new audiences. Shadangule, for example, has a store in Paris and Mishra is part of the international haute couture calendar. Shadangule affirms, “My target is the global audience and of course, I can’t do that with just one language. So to them it’s not a sari, but a beautiful gown or a skirt. The second thought is that lifestyles are changing; even here in India, we are constantly evolving, and this allows a younger generation with a different lifestyle to appreciate the sari in their own way.”

Photographer: Sarang Gupta, Creative and Fashion Direction: Vinita Makhija, Model: Hara, Makeup : Eshwar Log, Hair: Pooja Parmar, Fashion Assistant: Khushi Bhatia, Production: By The Gram, Multimedia Designer: Mehak Jindal, Location Courtesy: The Oberoi, Mumbai