Something in the AQI+++ metro-city smog we’re collectively inhaling has rewired the zeitgeist’s relationship with grooming. Somewhere between political burnout, short skirts, and shorter attention spans, we have been witness to the re-emergence of hair as this versatile accessory that can travel beyond the scalp. Is your chosen hair-to-body ratio the new status symbol? Or a feminist reclamation of softness, autonomy, and “POV: I actually don’t care what that avoidant red flag of a man thinks”? Or is it simply proof we’re living inside an absurdist reboot of civilisation where nothing means anything and, therefore, everything does?
In February this year, UK-based Turkish designer Dilara Findikoglu’s fall/winter 2025-26 collection sent out a few furry eerie blonde jackets. Eerie because they looked suspiciously like several Pilates blondes were harvested to upholster them. As a longtime Margiela disciple, I couldn’t help but think of the blonde-lock jacket from his spring/summer 2009 swan song. I wasn’t alone: Berlin-based archive collector Angelina Nagornova recently crafted a chair out of 17 blonde wigs, explicitly referencing the Margiela piece. Her video clocked 374k views—a seismic leap from her usual 70k. Cousin Itt (of Addams Family legend) is enjoying a renaissance in 2025, and the internet cannot look away.
Hair, after all, holds memory. Across cultures, locks have been kept as relics of love, loss, mourning or pure witchcraft. In the Victorian era, wearing a loved one’s hair in jewellery, in brooches—literally at your bosom—bordered on beautifully macabre. But who doesn’t love a little goth sentimentality? It brings balance back into the universe, where every tradwife has a brat loyalist to counteract it and restore cosmic balance. Art that triggers repulsion rather than awe might be the most accurate reflection of the times; fashion has always been our favourite cultural mirror, and it shows the perfect aesthetic for a generation that believes in manifestation and taxes their emotional stability to Mercury retrograde.

Julia Fox at the Vanity Fair Oscars party earlier this year in a look by Turkish designer Dilara Findikoglu
And what cursed times these are. In the midst of war, world politics, and fallen economies, luxury prices still rise, while the creative industry grapples to find stable ground under the weight of its authoritarian hangover. Now more than ever, we can witness a messy reality that is far from the sanitised version we have become accustomed to. Instead of luxurious fur, we’re seeing the use of an element taken straight from the body as decoration for it. Perhaps that’s why designers are abandoning polished pelts and turning to the human body itself for decoration. Collina Strada’s spring/summer 26 collection sculpted hair into caps that clung to the skull. If the hemline index claims skirts rise when economies fall, then maybe hair-as-accessory is our recession indicator, signalling scarcity, chaos, and a willingness to get weird with it.











