For those who love a lush, gothic period drama, Guillermo del Toro’s newest film, Frankenstein, is a true treat. From the rich silk dressing gown worn by the lead Victor Frankenstein (Oscar Isaac) to Mia Goth as Elizabeth Lavenza in a series of luminescent gowns layered with crinolines, sheer veils and jewels, the costumes and accessories in del Toro’s world were far from simply period-appropriate. In interviews, costume designer Kate Hawley has spoken about how the director was clear from the start, telling her, “I don’t want to see fucking black hats and Dickensian tropes.” Instead, the pair created their own world, one that was populated with references spanning Caravaggio paintings, beetle wings, and even Mick Jagger (the pair visualised Victor Frankenstein as a dandy-rockstar who wasn’t immune to the drama of a pair of red gloves or striped pants).
Along with the clothes, another arena in which the pair were able to experiment was the jewellery, most of it generously provided by Tiffany & Co. The film features around 27 jewels and objects from the brand, everything from necklaces, rings, and earrings that are worn by Goth, to sterling silver objects and even a pocket watch that’s carried by Elizabeth’s fiancé, Leopold Frankenstein.
If there was one motif that was central to the visuals of the film, it’s the colour red. It appears multiple times in the movie, often in striking contrast to the backdrop—del Toro meant it to be a symbol of Frankenstein’s quest for immortality. You can see it in his cravats and gloves; but the most prominent one was probably the red rosary that Elizabeth wears multiple times, which stands out against her beetle-bright wardrobe of iridescent greens and blues. The beaded necklace that’s looped multiple times around her neck features a cross that was hand-carved by the Tiffany team and hides a tiny garnet scarab in the centre (there’s already a Reddit thread dedicated to finding dupes).
The scarab is a motif often seen in ancient Egyptian art and artefacts, where it symbolised rebirth and regeneration. It’s a pointed reference to the themes of the film and a delightful mashup of religious iconographies from across continents. Elizabeth is even wearing it at the end, where the red necklace shines against her pristine white wedding gown that includes a bodice made of ribbons and layers of organza that make her appear like a true bride of Frankenstein.
