Jewellery & Watches04 Jun 20254 MIN

For Katerina Perez, every gem is a miracle—even if some shine brighter

From a ring by Salvador Dalí to a necklace made of marble, the jewellery expert takes us through the jewels that shaped her

Luxury jewellery consultant Katerina Perez takes The Nod through her favourite jewellery pieces

I often say that jewellery is joy you can wear—and for me, it’s been a lifelong source of happiness. One of my earliest memories is being wrapped head to toe in my grandmother’s jewellery, a moment captured in a photograph my mother showed me years later. That image stuck with me. It wasn’t just the sparkle or the gold; it was the feeling. Jewellery has always been there in my life, quietly but powerfully present—as comfort, as company, as celebration.

I come from a family of artists. My mother restores paintings, my father restores antique furniture. Art has always been part of the air I breathe, and for me, jewellery is my kind of art. We go to museums to feed our souls, don’t we? We know we can’t take the paintings home, but we visit anyway, just to be surrounded by beauty. Jewellery, to me, serves that same purpose. Unlike paintings, you can wear jewellery. It lives with you, moves with you, and changes with your mood.

Twelve years ago, I started sharing my passion for jewellery online through a website and eventually an Instagram account, which now has half a million followers. It led me on a journey to further explore my love for jewellery and cemented the awareness that so much of jewellery is pure emotion. It doesn’t need to exist. And yet it does, beautifully so.

One of my greatest joys is being able to travel the world through my work. I’ve visited countless places, met many inspiring people, and listened to their stories, from designers to gem-cutters to miners. It’s endlessly fascinating to see how someone takes something from nature—a raw stone or a nugget of gold—and through their imagination and skill transforms it into something magical, a wearable form of art. The process is filled with struggle and triumph.

India, in particular, has a remarkable relationship with jewellery—one that resonates deeply with me. It’s not just about beauty, it’s about meaning and culture. The symbolism behind gold, the regional use of particular stones, the traditional techniques like polki, meenakari, and sculptural goldwork—there’s such a wealth of heritage here. Even the climate plays a role: all that glorious sunshine is perfect for showing off enamelled designs and colourful gemstones that lift the spirits.

But even after all this time, what still gives me joy is discovering something new. New designers, fresh ideas, and unexpected combinations keep this world alive and thrilling. Today’s creators are more artistic, more daring. They experiment with materials like titanium and aluminium, they use unexpected stone cuts and bold colours, and they no longer confine themselves to the ‘big three’ gemstones of ruby, emerald, and sapphire. There’s a growing appreciation for spinels, tourmalines, imperial topaz, mandarin garnets. Paraiba tourmalines, once dismissed as ‘semi-precious’, are now rightly seen as precious in their own right. After all, if it’s born from the earth, it’s already a miracle.

But looking back, if I had to choose a few pieces that truly punctuated my journey—my own personal holy-grail jewels—three extraordinary designs spring to mind.

A ring designed by Salvador Dalí

A gold ring designed by Salvador Dali with angel wings
 

The first is a ring designed by the famous Surrealist artist Salvador Dalí, shaped like an angel’s wings with three small diamonds in the centre. There were only a handful of versions ever made, and I stumbled across one at an exhibition. I’ve always loved Dalí’s work—his wild imagination, his ability to bend reality. Trying on that ring wasn’t just about wearing jewellery. It was about touching history. I knew he had held this piece. I was holding something he imagined. It was as if I’d reached across time and space to meet him. That’s the power of vintage and historical jewellery—it connects us to something greater than ourselves.

Boucheron’s Bleu de Jodhpur necklace

Released in 2015, what made this necklace by the French high jewellery house truly unique was that it was reversible and featured marble. Not just any marble, but stone from the Makrana quarry, the very same material that was used to build the legendary Taj Mahal in Agra. I’ve never seen marble in high jewellery before, especially from such a prestigious house. The necklace took 1,700 hours to make, was bold, unexpected, and it told a beautiful story.

The Patiala necklace by Cartier

A legendary piece that feels almost mythical, the Patiala necklace was a commission by the Maharaja of Patiala in 1928. A cascade of diamonds and history, centred by an exceptional yellow diamond of 234.49 carats...it’s nearly impossible to comprehend its opulence. No wonder it is the largest necklace ever made by Cartier. For me, it’s a reminder of the emotional power jewellery can carry, a symbol of identity, legacy, and the human need to be remembered.

Katerina Perez is a luxury jewellery consultant. You can read her work on Katerinaperez.com.

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