“It’s soft power.” US Vice President Grace Penn (Allison Janney) drops this truth bomb on Kate Wyler (Keri Russell), her starchy ambassador to the UK, in the gripping final moments of Episode 5 of The Diplomat’s second season. Until she meets the polished Penn, Wyler, who would prefer jeans and an oversized blazer to a Galvan London satin gown, has taken a practical, boots-on-the-ground approach to diplomacy. But as Penn teaches her, “No one will read your policy papers...Meanwhile your face will appear in the media an average of 12,000 times a day. Every classroom in America, every embassy in the world will hang your picture on their wall.”
Initially, it seems Penn is addressing appearances—something Wyler dismisses. “I am not Cinderella. I am here for 30 funerals,” she snaps at her husband and colleagues when they suggest something more glamorous for an official event. “I have a black suit, and I have another black suit.” But in Penn’s countering of Wyler’s disdain for fashion lies a deeper message: the concept of soft power.
In international policy, soft power refers to influencing others through cultural and economic means instead of coercion or military force. This concept applies personally, too. How we present ourselves—our demeanour, communication style, and appearance—can impact the influence we have on the world around us.
Clothing plays a key role in this dynamic. The advice to dress for the job you aspire to, rather than the one you have, is spot on. It’s not merely about looking good; it’s about using fashion as a tool for connection and influence in diplomacy and everyday interactions.
And it’s not just abroad. Consider how Mahatma Gandhi wore the hand-spun dhoti as a symbol of Swadeshi, evoking national pride. Or how the Nehru jacket, once associated with Jawaharlal Nehru, has evolved into the ‘Modi jacket’, showing how attire conveys cultural identity and political ideology.
Designers Tarun Tahiliani and Sanjay Garg are great examples of India’s sartorial soft power, for how they give traditional craftwork a global appeal. Tahiliani mixes gilets and corsets with draped dhotis for an ‘India Modern’ vocabulary while at Raw Mango, Garg blends Japanese minimalism with a variety of maximalist Indian textile techniques. Think Chanderi and Banarasi brocade fabrics used to create kimono jackets and slim cut trousers that align with international tastes.
In The Diplomat, Penn is clear about the role of soft power in our hyper-visual world. “You’ve got a couple of choices, wear a suit like the military does a uniform... or get a gimmick, blonde bob, lipstick...a shorthand so people see what you stand for”, she continues in her Episode 5 speech. In this landscape, fashion serves as an obvious way to make a statement. It shapes how we present ourselves in selfies and sparks discussions about gender, identity, and politics.
This is why it seems so charged to pair a sari with Doc Martens instead of high heels. It explains our curiosity about what Taylor Swift wears at the airport versus on stage or why Charli XCX’s album Brat captured the sense of how young women aspire to live—dirty, hedonistic, happy, and braless.
These evolving expressions of self and influence have also spilled onto the runway. Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 2025 show at Paris Fashion Week championed women who use fashion as both swag and a shield to navigate society. Creative director Nicolas Ghesquière used the phrase “soft power” to describe the contrast of rigid tailoring and lightweight fabrics and textures. He drew inspiration from 1980s’ strong shoulders and dramatic peplum waists, and in a contrast, the Renaissance, visible in the button-down blouses, sheer skirts, and bloomers. It was a new kind of femininity, one that’s redefined for an age of female solidarity, making it a style for everyone.
Nothing says power like a suit (it’s Wyler’s uniform of choice in The Diplomat) and this season, the traditional trouser-and-jacket pairing was present in a more laid-back form. Look at Giorgio Armani’s relaxed trousers that were reminiscent of his slouchy, 1980s fits and Schiaparelli’s cuffed-at-the-hem bottoms, or Loewe’s pairing of a giant pair of floral balloon pants with a tuxedo blazer and vest. And with crisp white shirts layered under slinky dresses, Max Mara’s show reflected today’s ideas of casual elegance.
As you plan your wardrobe for the upcoming season, think of a ‘soft power silhouette’ that feels comfortable and vibe-checked for you. Choose fashion that projects confidence, allowing you to manifest the future in a way that Penn would totally approve.
