NorBlack NorWhite’s Nike collab hits the ball out of the park

It’s not often that a sportswear giant comes knocking at the door of a niche, homegrown label. Nike’s previous collaborators have included Parisian Japanese fashion label, Comme des Garçons and French brand, Jacquemus, but the newest name on the list is the Delhi-based label NorBlack NorWhite (NBNW), founded by designer duo Amrit Kumar and Mriga Kapadiya. The pair have built a reputation for their kaleidoscopic textile work and cheeky nods to Indian cultural tropes in a manner that appeals to Indians, both at home and beyond. No wonder then that their collaboration with Nike Women is rooted in fabric and movement, complete with their signature tie-dye prints. The collection features several footwear silhouettes: the Nike Air Max Craze, Motiva, Pegasus 41 and the Calm slide. There’s also clothing styles—from sports bras and tank tops to tights—that carry forward the bandhani motif, and even a Nike x NorBlack NorWhite crossbody bag that completes any look.

The collaboration was launched today with a campaign shot by photographer Bharat Sikka and starring wrestler Anshu Malik, sprinter Priya Mohan, and cricketers Jemimah Rodrigues and Shafali Verma, among others. “It feels like a release because we’ve been at it for two years,” says Kapadiya from Toronto the day before launch. “Honestly, it feels like a graduation. But also, like—of course we did this. It feels right.”

It’s been 15 years since the duo started their label out of a 300 sq ft apartment in Mumbai and now, that small project between two friends has grown into a visual language and a business spanning continents and subcultures—Kapadiya is based between Toronto (where the two grew up) and New Delhi while Kumar lives in the capital full-time. Below, Kapadiya reflects on the joy of NBNW finding its legs, the long-distance rhythm she’s now found with her co-founder, and the collaboration that has been two years in the making. 

It’s the day before the launch. How are you feeling?

Honestly, I’m excited. There’s always last-minute chaos—nothing is ever perfectly wrapped. But we’ve been working on this for two years. The teaser got such great energy. We’re just happy to finally put it out there.

How do you and Amrit divide roles?

You see me doing this right now and Amrit not being here [laughs]. It’s more about what we’re good at and what we naturally gravitate towards. When we started, we didn’t define roles—it was two friends who lived together for seven or eight years and worked like sisters. Amrit holds down production once we’re done with sampling, and I manage marketing, storytelling and press. But we still flow around each other and in reality, when you start a small business, you literally do everything.

You work between Toronto and New Delhi. How do you manage working remotely?

We’ve found our rhythm, but time zones are brutal. It can get really frustrating sometimes because my brain is a certain way when I wake up. It has to go into analytical mode versus writing mode or decision-making mode and sometimes I don’t want to do that at 7:30 in the morning, you know? It’s also tough for Amrit to stay up late at night. Thankfully, we’re both very good at remote work—we were doing it way before the pandemic—but it’s always nicer to be in the studio together. It feels healthier and more productive.

Is there a lot of caffeine involved?

Yeah! I have tea mostly. One coffee as a treat—with a date [holds up coffee mug and date]. I like a quiet morning with my sadhana, my meditations. We’ve learned not to have meetings every day. Some days are just about doing the work—design, ops, admin—without the chaos. We try to put personal sanity first, before the rat race of all the urgency of getting things done.

You used to work at an advertising agency before. What led you here?

I definitely didn’t go to fashion school and although I loved textiles and style, I didn’t even think about having a label. But I grew up immersed in culture and the arts. My parents were always hosting concerts, working with musicians and artists, so I’ve spent a lot of time behind the stage. Amrit didn’t go to fashion school either, but she was really into fashion and design. We met in Toronto when she was interning at 69 Vintage and reworking shoes. I’d photograph them. We started having fun with it. But we had no formal training. Everything was learned and is still being learned on the ground.

There’s something beautiful about that because we don’t have any rules and while that means it takes longer for sure, but from a thinking and a creative thinking standpoint, everything is open, right? Composition is a feeling. It’s not trying to hit certain ratios or numbers or trying to match the way a professor told you.

How did the Nike collaboration come about?

They reached out about two years ago. At first, it wasn’t about a collab—they just wanted to build a relationship. They’d seen our work and said it was amazing. Shortly after that, we got a call saying our names were up for a collaboration and that the vote was unanimous. It was shocking because it all happened so fast, but it also provided us with a lot of confidence in our own efforts and skills.

What was the design process like?

It was very fabrication focused. We started with textile and print. Then, we applied them to the styles that work well for Nike and took it ahead from there. We also had to work within their seasonal colour palette, which meant more muted tones—a shift for us, but a fun challenge. Tie-dye felt natural for sportswear and fit the vibe.

What signatures did you want in the collaboration?

For us, it was obviously really important to have some form of tie dye or bandhani because that’s the core of a lot of what we do and have built NBNW on.

Those draped tops and dresses that look like saris—are they NBNW?

Yes! Everything that’s not Nike in the campaign is from a NorBlack NorWhite capsule that drops at the same time. It’s to mark the Nike moment but also our [15th] anniversary.

How are you celebrating the drop?

You’re hilarious! We haven’t planned anything. We’ll probably be dealing with everything that comes with the release. But yeah, it’s a full moon, so I’m going to take it easy and ride the energy.

Love your nails, by the way. Are they chrome?

Yes! Chrome silver. I got them done a few days ago and they’ve held up—even after swimming in the sea.