A first-timer’s cheat sheet to Turkiye

A few years ago, it felt impossible to scroll through television channels without stumbling across a Turkish drama. Like many people, my introduction to the country came through those sweeping storylines, impossibly beautiful backdrops and characters who always seemed to be having very intense conversations by the Bosphorus. Beyond that, and some random reels of felines on the streets of Turkiye, I didn’t know much about what travelling through the country would actually feel like.

As a first-time visitor, I wanted an itinerary that covered the essentials without feeling like I was racing from one landmark to the next. What I ended up with was a route that felt surprisingly well-balanced. Starting in Istanbul, moving on to Ankara and ending in Cappadocia, my five days-three cities itinerary saw me wander through bustling markets, explore centuries-old landmarks and drink more tea than I thought possible. 

Having visited mid-May, I can also confirm that Turkiye requires a wardrobe with a range...light layers for Istanbul, something waterproof for Ankara and a proper jacket for the chilly mornings in Cappadocia. Locals tell me that September and October are the best time to visit, with temperatures fit for leisurely explorations. To get you started, here is starter guide that mixes a bit of touristy must-sees alongside the buzziest new places to see. 

DAY 1

Our base, The Marmara Pera in Istanbul, turned out to be perfectly placed, just a stone's throw from İstiklal Street and right next to the legendary Pera Palace Hotel, where Agatha Christie is rumoured to have written Murder on the Orient Express. Was I suddenly convinced I, too, could become a bestselling author if I lingered long enough in the neighbourhood? Absolutely.

We spent the day drifting down İstiklal Street, following the nostalgic red tram through the crowds and, unintentionally, playing a city-wide game of cat spotting. The rumours are true: Istanbul belongs to its cats. At one point, while trailing a particularly determined feline, I wandered into Panter Kırtasiye, the impossibly charming stationery shop you’ve probably seen on Instagram. Thankfully, it lives up to the hype. There are leather journals, fountain pens, colourful inks, brass trinkets, and enough beautiful writing supplies to convince you that maybe this is the year you finally start journaling. I picked up a fountain pen and teal ink for my calligraphy-obsessed sister. Lunch was a squeeze-in affair at the fuss-free Taksim Döner: döner, fries, and a Diet Coke. No notes.

İstiklal is also full of tiny boutiques worth ducking into. One of my favourites was Kare Deri, a beautiful leather goods store where handmade bags and accessories line the shelves. If you have a few days in the city, they can even make you a custom piece. For touch-and-go tourists like me, there are plenty of gorgeous ready-to-buy options that feel far more special than another evil eye keychain.

If football is your thing, time your evening stroll through Nevizade Sokak just before kick-off. The narrow alley transforms into the unofficial living room of Galatasaray, one of Turkiye’s most beloved football clubs. Fans spill out of pubs, beers in hand, chanting as match-day excitement builds. Even if you don’t know your strikers from your defenders, it’s impossible not to get swept up in the atmosphere. Dinner at Antakya Kebap in lane adjacent to İstiklal Street ended the day on a high: a mezze spread followed by smoky Adana Urfa kebabs. Not bad for a day we had supposedly kept “low-key.”

DAY 2

If I had one piece of advice for your second day in Istanbul, it’s this: start early. The city rewards early risers with quieter streets, shorter queues and the rare opportunity to admire centuries-old architecture without someone’s selfie stick being shoved down your face. After breakfast at The Marmara Pera, I made my way to the Spice Market, which feels a bit like the Grand Bazaar’s more manageable younger sibling. While the pyramids of spices are impressive, I found myself far more interested in the tea and left with many packets of mango tea, a sweet blend that somehow tastes exactly like warm mango juice.

As someone who had only encountered Turkish delight through years of Chronicles of Narnia jokes, I never quite understood why Edmund was willing to betray his siblings for it. After trying an authentic version at the Spice Market, I finally got it. Was I going to sell out my family? No. Did the memes suddenly make a lot more sense? Absolutely. If you’re peckish, keep Pandeli in mind, the Michelin-recognised institution perched above the market.

From there, I made my way to the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. Even if you’re not a history buff, the scale and craftsmanship are impossible to ignore. And if, like me, you enjoy a bit of context with your sightseeing, the Hagia Sophia History and Experience Museum near the Hippodrome is surprisingly engaging, bringing the city’s Byzantine and Ottoman past to life without feeling like a school field trip.

By the time hunger strikes, settle into Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi, which is a stone’s throw away from Hagia Sophia, and is known for its juicy meat köftes, fries and an unexpectedly excellent chilli dip. Wash it down with ayran, Turkiye's answer to buttermilk, particularly welcome in the summer heat.

The Basilica Cistern, famously featured in Inferno, makes for a wonderfully atmospheric next stop before you lose yourself in the Grand Bazaar. Yes, the lamps are beautiful, but I’d urge you to look at the chess and backgammon sets instead. At a time when luxury fashion brands are selling designer board games, these handcrafted versions feel like the cooler souvenir.

As evening rolled around, we drifted back towards İstiklal Street and ended up at the al fresco Ficcin, which occupies so many buildings along one little lane that for a while I genuinely thought they were different restaurants. I tried the mezze platter here as well the meat pie. The food wasn’t my favourite meal of the trip, but it’s the perfect place to peoplewatch, especially when you have a rakı in hand. The anise-flavoured spirit with an abv of 40, affectionately called lion’s milk, turns cloudy when diluted and has a way of making your sore feet feel considerably less important.

DAY 3

A four-hour train ride brought us to Ankara ,Turkiye’s capital, by late afternoon, and since we were staying at the InterContinental Grand Ankara, close to the parliament building, we decided to lean into the city’s slower pace rather than cram in sightseeing. Ankara is surprisingly walkable, dotted with parks and green spaces, and feels made for travellers who enjoy wandering without an agenda.

Our first stop was Atakule, the city’s iconic observation tower. While the views were lovely, the real surprise was the VR simulation experience on the deck that takes you soaring across Ankara. If you’re looking to linger a little longer, the tower complex is also home to several cafés and restaurants, including Luigi’s Restaurant & Bar, a popular spot known for its city views and Mediterranean-inspired interiors.

Right opposite the tower, we grabbed kumpir from Acıktım, an Ankara institution. Think of it as the ultimate loaded baked potato. Mine came stuffed with cheese, corn and jalapeños, and it was every bit as comforting as it sounds.

The evening was spent strolling down Tunalı Hilmi Street, where pubs spill onto the sidewalks and football matches flicker across television screens. We ended the day with dinner at Uludag, a local dig near the hotel, digging into buttery İskender kebab followed by baked rice pudding. It is similar to but a tad less sweet than kheer and lightly caramelised on top. This was one of the places where you could spot locals as well and it was here that one of the representatives travelling with our group told me about Turkiye’s longstanding fascination with Indian cinema. While many Indians went through a phase of obsessing over Turkish dramas, films like 3 Idiots have found an equally enthusiastic audience here, apparently remaining popular years after their release. It turned out to be the perfect ending to a wonderfully unhurried day. Ankara may be overlooked, but if you’re craving a slower side of Turkiye, don’t skip it.

DAY 4

Day four began with a final morning in Ankara before the drive to Cappadocia. I’d recommend setting aside about an hour for the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. It’s a useful stop for understanding the many civilisations that have passed through this part of Turkiye, without requiring the sort of museum stamina that leaves you desperately searching for the exit.

From there, I headed to Ankara Castle, where the pace slows considerably. The area is filled with winding lanes, old stone houses, small shops and cafés that invite a bit of aimless wandering. Lunch at Safranhan Brasserie, situated right next to the castle, is a good excuse to linger a little longer, especially if you can grab a table on the terrace overlooking the historic quarter. Before leaving, I ducked into the tiny coffee shop next door to order a Turkish coffee with mastic. Yes, it is technically a tree sap. No, don’t let that put you off. The result is rich, aromatic and slightly herbal, and far more delicious than its description suggests.

Then comes the four-hour drive to Cappadocia, which is very much part of the experience. Somewhere along the route, the scenery begins to shift into those surreal rock formations and rolling valleys you’ve probably seen on postcards. More than once, I caught myself staring out of the window thinking it looked exactly like one of those old Windows screensavers that came pre-installed on every computer in the early 2000s. By early evening, we checked into Agarta Cave Hotel in Çavuşin. Built into Cappadocia’s famous rock formations, it’s the kind of place where you’ll head straight to the terrace before unpacking to watch hot-air balloons drift across the valleys.

Dinner was a short walk away at Bala Per, where I finally tried Testi Kebabı. The slow-cooked meat arrives sealed inside a clay pot before being dramatically cracked open tableside. Part dinner, part performance, and thankfully worth the theatrics.

DAY 5

Day five was supposed to begin with the quintessential Cappadocia experience: a sunrise hot-air balloon ride floating above the valleys. Unfortunately, the weather had other ideas. The balloons were grounded, which, judging by the collective disappointment at breakfast, is a heartbreak Cappadocia visitors know well. Still, one cancelled balloon ride does not ruin a day in a place that already looks like it was designed by an overenthusiastic fantasy novelist.

My first stop was Kybele Boutique Ceramic, which felt like a dream for anyone who has ever convinced themselves they need “just one more” handmade bowl to throw away their adult money. The workshop unfolds through multiple rooms, each dedicated to a different style of pottery. One showcases traditional Turkish plates, another is filled with contemporary pieces that look perfectly at home in a modern art gallery, while a third features glow-in-the-dark ceramics.

Next came Bazaar 54, where the carpets are so beautiful they make you briefly consider rearranging your entire living room around a rug. The store specialises in hand-knotted Turkish carpets, including prized Hereke silk and wool pieces, and yes, they can ship them home if your suitcase has already surrendered.

The afternoon was spent exploring Cappadocia’s famous fairy chimneys. Rising from the earth like something from a Salvador Dalí painting, the rock formations are so surreal that “fairy chimneys” somehow feels like the most logical name for them. Given Cappadocia’s reputation for ceramics, you’ll find plenty of beautiful hand-painted bowls, plates and coasters. I was tempted by more than a few of them, but I also noticed that many of the designs weren’t exclusive to the region and popped up again in shops back in Istanbul.

Dinner was at Virtus, located within Sacred House, a restored 250-year-old Greek mansion that feels part medieval castle, part theatrical fever dream. Between the candlelit interiors, antique silverware and rich Anatolian dishes, it was the sort of meal that made the cancelled balloon ride feel considerably less tragic.

DAY 6

After the weather dashed our hot-air balloon hopes the previous day, the alarm going off at 4am the next day felt considerably less cruel. This time, the skies cooperated. There’s something slightly surreal about watching dozens of balloons inflate in the dark before sunrise, glowing like giant lanterns against Cappadocia’s rocky landscape. An hour later, we were floating above the valleys, fairy chimneys and cave dwellings that had looked impressive from the ground but felt entirely different from the air. It is one of those rare tourist attractions that somehow lives up to every photograph you’ve seen beforehand.

Back on solid ground, there was just enough time for a quick breakfast and one final look at the valleys before heading to the airport. A short flight later, we were back in Istanbul, trading fairy chimneys and balloon-filled skies for the familiar bustle of the city.