In House of Akina’s almost-secret basement, Fitour is the new tasting-menu meal from chef Ashwin Singh, built around a theatrical chef-led format. The 14-seat dining room in Bandra is built around the chef’s own food memories. The name, which we heard he came up with at seven, means ‘intense passion’ in Hindi; the menu draws from his family kitchen in Meerut, his travels, kitchens he has worked in, and ingredients and flavours that have stayed with him. His career has included Taj, Marriott, JW Marriott Kolkata, Gaggan, and Masque. Cocktails and wines by Shrineet Sonsurkar and Pratik Bhargude are developed alongside the menu, with Indian flavours and ingredients carrying through the pairings.
The room adds to his story with handmade terracotta tiles, woven fibres, rippled glass, and a ‘Nostalgia Wall’ of photographs, handwritten recipes, and childhood memories. A display of pickles, ferments, and hand-blended spices sits at the centre. There are no external signs or walk-ins, and one seating per day.
Events and new and limited menus
Masque turns 10 with The Second Act, a new tasting menu that cooks from memory, with India still at its heart. Chef Varun Totlani’s vegetarian menu includes sea buckthorn pani puri, bhutta miso chai with charred corn, pachi pulusu with red tamarind and kohlrabi, sweet potato papad with rassa and chewy celeriac, and khurchan kebab with lotus stem and star fruit. The non-vegetarian menu brings in squid, bombil papad with rassa and trout roe, khurchan kebab with rabbit, ladyfish with clam and pulissery, and BBQ pork with Goan choriz and pao. Both end with masale bhaat, achaar, and chutney, followed by desserts of yoghurt, citrus, jasmine, apple, basundi, and petit fours. Don’t ask us for favourites; we could go on and on.
Three months after it closed for refurbishments, the new absolutely stunning dining room is the kind that makes you want to soak it in and sink into it. Atelier Ashiesh Shah has redesigned Masque around a sequence of spaces, each with its own mood cocoon, with a full-height glass facade putting the kitchen at the centre of the dining room. The entrance leads first into a burl-veneer room before opening into linen walls, marble, deep green, burnt amber and rust. Rathin Barman’s sculpture remains, referencing Mumbai’s cotton mills, while paintings by Pandit Khairnar bring earth colours into the room. A staircase leads to a darker, more decadent space in black and French moiré, with an intimate bar for a final course or drink. The design language takes a distinctly Parisian turn, but know that everything is made in India.
Dashain at Across, Kalaghoda
Dashain (also called Bada Dashain or Vijaya Dashami) is the longest, most significant, and most auspicious festival in Nepal, lasting for 15 days in September or October according to the Hindu lunar calendar. Across is celebrating this time until October 21 with plates like sel roti with cucumber achar, dry anchovy butter, charred tomato and timur pickle; mutton momos with sesame chutney; chicken sekuwa sandeko; rustic duck choila; Himalayan mutton salad; mutton paya with kwati; traditional mutton pakku; country chicken curry; smashed potatoes with timur and seasonal Himalayan saag. There are fish and chicken dishes too, but mutton is the foundation of the specials. The whole point of the fest is abundance, of sharing a meal and the feeling of being well fed at someone’s home, and that’s exactly what the festive specials will be about.