JJ Valaya has a superpower to counter creative blocks

JJ Valaya doesn’t do subtle. On the second floor of Jio World Plaza, two gleaming new facades announce his return to Mumbai: one dedicated to couture, the other to ready-to-wear. Both bear his signature shifting-leaves chevron motif—an unmistakable stamp of the couturier who has built a three-decade-long career on drama and detail.

Step inside the couture store and you’re greeted not by the usual racks and mannequins but by an Art Deco chandelier, exotic wall coverings, and photographs taken by Valaya himself. The foyer walls? Not wallpaper but century-old antique shawls. “We love contradictions,” he explains. “Things that seem completely different but end up working beautifully together.”

It’s the kind of lavish, layered setting that only Valaya could conjure, echoing the spirit of his 12,000 sqft Delhi flagship—albeit in what he calls a “baby version”. Next door, his JJV Kapurthala boutique takes a more playful, everyday approach—prints, jackets, and separates designed for those who may not be brides or grooms but still want a slice of Valaya’s grandeur.

The designer, who founded his label in 1992, a year after graduating from NIFT, closed Hyundai India Couture Week 2025 earlier this year in June with ‘East’, a showstopper of a collection inspired by the grandeur of the Balkans, East Asia, and the Indian subcontinent in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Despite his status as one of India’s first-generation couturiers, he’s anything but aloof; Valaya is as effervescent in conversation as he is precise in design, speaking with infectious enthusiasm about Art Deco, Mumbai traffic, and even his new iPhone. On the evening of the launch of his two new stores, he spoke to The Nod about what he’s done, what he’s building, and what excites him about the future.

What did you do yesterday?

I arrived in Mumbai last evening. I checked into the hotel, got dressed, and went to a fashion event to present an award. I’m not a party guy at all, so I just did my bit and came back home.

Do you end up coming to Mumbai often?

Not very frequently, but I guess I will now. I love the city, for what it’s worth. When I started my career, this was one of the first cities I started selling in. First at Ensemble, then Vama.

How did you spend your day today?

Today was nice. Lots of things to do, including setting up, making sure the stores are looking great, and, of course, I managed to squeeze in a couple of meetings. I’m looking forward to meeting some old friends. I’ve called a lot of my oldies. I’m like, come on, it’s time. Make the drive. Reach here. Bombay traffic seems to be quite a thing always.

Where are you staying?

I’m staying at the Fairmont. It’s beautiful. I love the Art Deco movement—the ’20s glamour. So, I love that place.

Is everything in the new stores designed by you?

Every single inch of it. I don’t let anybody else touch anything. I’m obsessive about every detail. We have a home brand called Valaya Home through which we do a lot of luxury projects, so we do our own stores. I’m also a photographer, so all these photographs you see are also by me.

What was the last thing you photographed?

Good question. I’ve been working too hard on creating collections that I haven’t photographed for a while, actually. My last show in an art gallery was in 2019. I would love to get back to it.

Does it ever get overwhelming for you—juggling three lines and your passion?

No. If I was not doing enough, I’d be sad. Creativity shouldn’t have walls built around it. And even if I feel there’s a lot happening, I have a way to get around it.

What happens when you face a creative block?

It doesn’t happen normally. I have a superpower—find a spiritual master. That’ll help.

That’s a nice tip. Who’s yours?

You wouldn’t have heard of him—he’s no fancy godman. He’s called Tarneiv ji, and I’ve been following him for 25 years. He kind of teaches you how to get around things.

Your birthday is coming up. Do you have plans for celebrating?

I’m quite a recluse. I don’t make many plans or go out too much. I’m very content in my own zone. My daughters will probably come up with something. My older one, Urvi, who’s a stylist, gave me the new iPhone for my birthday.

How are you liking your new iPhone?

I haven’t had the time to play with it. The only feature that fascinates me is the camera. So, I want to see what this baby can do.

Do you shoot video at all?

Not really. I’m confused whether I want to do it or not. With stills, it’s like I’m freezing time. It’s like you become God. You pause time forever in a frame and you can go back to it anytime.

In 2010 you introduced the Alika jacket, a carefully tailored and embroidered bolero-style jacket. What makes it such a signature piece for you?

The workmanship of the Alika is so pure, and the silhouette is timeless. I would really wear it over a pair of jeans with some really chunky jewellery and be totally cool. Or I would put it over a beautiful sari with a belt. It’s so versatile. You can throw it anywhere. In 2018 I invited 24 creatives to style it their way; we did a photo exhibition, plus an installation. It was such a varied group of people, including a lot of other designers and creatives. Oh my God, it brings back memories. That was a crazy project. Thanks for putting it in my head. I’m going to work around that.

What’s something you’d never see at JJ Valaya?

Fluorescent colours. It’s just not us. We’re all about embracing the past but making it really new. And fluorescent really just isn’t our vibe. It’s just never happening.

Do you have distinct processes for when you’re designing your couture and prêt lines?

Yes and no. No, because it’s the same brain. I think on the same level and my entire team knows and is aligned. Yes, because there’s flamboyance in one and there’s restraint in the other. This whole sort of yin and yang of working with two lines is very exciting for me.

Is designing one more fun than the other?

I enjoy both equally, but couture is my baby. When I see that kind of craftsmanship and every little detail taking shape, that’s most exciting. In JJV Kapurthala, we play with a lot of prints, which is equally exciting. The fact that so many more people can wear that as opposed to a limited number who will wear couture is always fascinating.

What does tomorrow look like for you, both literally and figuratively?

I fly back to Delhi tomorrow morning. There are thoughts floating around in my head that are very exciting. We are now also thinking of introducing a very cool new line in Muse [his custom couture line] that is not restricted to bridalwear. We’re looking at doing really nice, beautiful pieces, like jackets and pants, but with the highest level of quality and workmanship one can find. That’s still a work in progress, but we’ll be rolling it out soon. There’s so much more to do.