Fashion28 Jul 20255 MIN

Would you wait six months for a pair of bespoke leather shoes?

Three Indian men’s shoemakers are quietly reminding us there’s a whole world of footwear beyond the latest hype sneaker

Tarun Oblum, Feature, The Nod Mag

Shoemaker Tarun Oblum

The austere offices of law firm Krishna & Saurastri, located in south Mumbai, aren’t where you’d expect to meet a clotheshorse, especially one with his own handmade shoe label. But here I am on a rainy afternoon with Rishabh Saurastri, a partner at the firm and also co-founder of Nomiri.

Dressed in a mustard-yellow sports jacket, off-white pleated trousers, and dark brown loafers from his own brand, the patent lawyer stands out—like Garamond Italic among Couriers.

Saurastri, 34, and Rishi Hankare, a third-generation cordwainer, launched Nomiri in late 2024. The brand offers impossibly elegant shoes—including hand-welted wholecut Oxfords, derbies, and twisted-strap loafers—across different lines. Prices start at ₹35,000 for made-to-order pairs and go well north of ₹1.3 lakh for bespoke. Some pairs can take up to six months to make.

They source leather from certified tanneries in Europe and Japan that also supply “the likes of Hermès”, and the shoes are crafted by specially trained staff at Hankare’s facility near Pune. “Nothing we use is from India; we just don’t have that kind of quality here. Leather, glues, threads, linings, inner material...,” says Saurastri. He describes Nomiri’s aesthetic as a blend of French and Italian with a Japanese vibe. The aspiration? To make shoes as good as the best Italian or Japanese makers. “Someone like Yohei Fukuda—that’s the benchmark,” he says, referring to the shoemaker behind Japan’s quiet rise as a bespoke powerhouse.

Nomiri isn’t Saurastri’s first brush with leather. About a decade ago, he started a small-batch leather bag company but gave up after suppliers failed to meet his standards. In 2019, he trained under the legendary Janne Melkersson in the town of Hara, Sweden. That rekindled his desire to work with leather and eventually led to Nomiri, which hopes to ride the fair winds social media often grants artisanal lifestyle brands that live up to their promise.

Indian men may be buying more Mercedes-Benz automobiles and Swiss watches and sipping fine tequila, but are they as particular about their footwear? Especially if it can’t be touched, felt, or seen when it’s online.

Saurastri says the next year will see Nomiri circumvent the obvious disadvantages of selling luxury goods online through trunk shows and collaborations. The early resonance, he claims, has made him optimistic. He believes there are still pockets, especially up north, where men love to dress well and are willing to spend on it. “That’s my customer—he’s heard good things about your work, he likes what you do. He won’t waste time asking for discounts.”

Saurastri has already made several bespoke pairs for clients from Mumbai, Hyderabad, and West Bengal, and says he’ll be happy selling around 70 hand-welted pairs a year once things settle. “That’s a conservative estimate, but I’ll happily take it.”

Down south, in Hyderabad, Tarun Oblum, another aesthete, is putting into play the lessons he’s learned over four-odd years in shoemaking. He’s moving from a smaller atelier to a three-storey building in Jubilee Hills, soon to be known as The Townhouse.

It will house other fine objects that interest men—vintage watches, period furniture, pocket squares—but the focus will be on giving his patrons a chance to “watch how their shoes come to life”.

Oblum studied leather technology in Milan and graduated in Footwear Design from the London College of Fashion. He started with an experimental atelier just as the COVID-19 pandemic was receding. Since then, with a team of eight craftsmen from Agra, his eponymous brand has earned a reputation, especially for its custom patinas, and a following that includes Telugu stars like Nagarjuna.

“Back when I was younger, I was rapping and producing; I wanted to be a sneaker designer. Then I did women’s clothing for a bit, before I realised I wanted to design things I would actually wear,” says the 32-year-old.

Oblum visits his barber twice a month, hand-washes his shirts, and likes his Negronis classic. That fastidiousness shows in the hand-welted footwear he makes. He’s particularly excited about their upcoming Originals line. “We’re contemporising a lot of styles. We did the mojiri sometime back. Now we’ve worked on an unstructured version of the Peshawari.”

You’d think selling premium shoes in India is a tough ask. But in Chennai, an offshoot of a multigenerational shoemaking business is doing just that—and at scale.

Over three decades ago, Hasan MK and Japanese shoemaker Jose Maria Watanabe started making shoes for the Japanese market. In the 2010s they changed gears to broaden their reach and established Bridlen. Today, they make over 10,000 Goodyear welted shoes annually. Prices go up to ₹49,000, and their latest line, Founders 25, features leather from J&FJ Baker, one of England’s last oak bark tanneries.

The company also hosts the winners of the World Championship of Shoemaking every year and is about to open its flagship store in the city.

“In India, Punjab is a great market. The north-east too—men there still dress formally. Overall, there’s more interest and awareness,” says Zahan Anees, who heads marketing and strategy at Bridlen. “I know everyone seems to be wearing sneakers, but we’ve always had our supporters. And the pendulum, if you ask me, is starting to swing the other way.”

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